Where dogs want to learn!

1.  Help! We are having a baby. What should we do to prepare our dog?
2. *We are thinking of getting a dog. What sort should we get?
3. *Our first dog needs company. Should we get a second dog?
4. *Should I let my dog have some puppies first before getting him/her desexed?
5.   Help! We are going on holiday. What should I look for in a kennel?
6. *Should we teach our dog "NO" and, if so, when should we use it?
7.  Do trained dogs live longer than untrained dogs?
8.  At what age should I take my puppy to puppy school?
9. *Help! My puppy is often carsick. What can I do?
10. *Help! My puppy nips feet and ankles. What should I do?
11.  Help! My dog won't come when I call him. What is the best way to teach "come"?
12.  Help! My dog pulls on lead. What is the best way to teach "heel"?
13.  My dog knows how to sit when he wants to. How can I get him to be reliable?
14.  Help! My dog jumps up. How can I stop him?
15.  Help! My dog barks all the time. What should I do to keep him quiet?
16.  My dog will only do things for me if I have food available. What should I do?
17.  Help!  I have lost my dog. What should I do?
18.  My dog is anxious. Does my dog suffer from "separation anxiety"?
19.  What should I do to help my dog overcome genuine "separation anxiety"?
20.  What is "positive reinforcement" training?
21.  How does "compulsion" interfere with training my dog?
22. *Should we have a first aid kit for our dog and, if so, what should be in it?
23. *What do I need to do to become a dog training instructor?
24. *We are considering the use of an electric collar. What, if any, are the disadvantages?
25. * What dog training courses are there and how do they compare?
26. * What should I feed my dog?
27. * We've just moved here & are looking for a good vet. What should we look for?
28. Future  question
29. Future  question
30. Future  question

1. We are having a baby. What should we do to prepare our dog?

'A New Baby in the Household'

 By Kate Meadows of C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training

 [Kate is an accredited Delta Canine Good Citizen Instructor. Her second baby, Grace, was born in April 2004. She and Graeme are the owner of Bailey a Red Kelpie rescued from the RSPCA in Brisbane whose best friend is their small son, Jonte]

 The Basics

It is important to start planning early to make the transition from a pet household to a pet household with a new baby.  You will need to think ahead and imagine what sort of changes will need to take place before baby arrives.

Start the training early, teach what you want your dog to do as opposed to what you dont want him to do.  Make the transition as easy as possible so your dog does not associate a drop in attention and privileges with the arrival of the new member of his family.

 Preparation and Management

The first few weeks that the baby comes home you will need quite a sterile environment, so you may want to think about dogs which have previously been allowed on the bed/sofa perhaps having their own bed/crate in another room.

Make sure your dogs vaccination, flea and worming regimes are up to date. You may find that walking your dog is hard to fit in for the first few weeks home, so it is good planning to ask someone else to do that for you and let the dog get used to that person in advance. 

Dogs that jump up can be a nuisance when you are holding your baby so it is a good idea to train your dog to keep all four paws on the ground. This can be done by using an alternative behaviour such as sitting. Take your time to retrain your dog to greet people. Use a lead to start with and reward him for saying hello without jumping up, then gradually wean him off the lead.

You will need to look at management of your dog so that you NEVER, EVER, LEAVE YOUR DOG AND CHILD TOGETHER UNSUPERVISED.

 Options to avoid this situation are: -

1.    Invest in a good playpen in which to place the baby 

2.    Use stair gates to keep the baby and dog separate

3.    Crate train your dog.

4.    It also pays to train your dog to spend more time away from you. For  example, let him outside with a Kong or bone for a couple of hours a day.

Everything will be new to your dog, so as the nursery furniture and baby gear arrive give your dog a chance to sniff it and see where it is being set up.

Eventually you may want to walk your dog with the stroller.  Firstly you need to train your dog to walk nicely on a loose lead, then - before baby arrives - start training your dog to walk safely next to you - not the stroller- without pulling. [If you have a very strong dog, you may need to look at new equipment to help you manage him, e.g. a properly fitted head collar. At C.L.E.A.R. D/T we always lend people the 20 minute video by Gentle Leader on how to use a head halter correctly.]

It is also worth considering the type of stroller you buy; four wheels tend to be more stable if you have a dog that lets his nose rule his head.

As the baby grows the dogs life becomes a lot trickier, with little hands wanting to pull his coat, tail and ears. Start preparing for the inevitable by handling and rewarding your dog for these actions in advance. Management and preparation is the key.

Practise touching your dogs coat when he is nicely relaxed. Increase the areas of the body touched/massaged over time to include ears, paws and tail. When the dog is happy with this you can practise pulling ears and coat gently in preparation for little hands.

Don't forget that as the child grows you can, in fact should, also teach him/her how to handle the dog gently. Teach your toddler how to stroke the dog and become involved in the feeding and grooming regimes.

Provide your dog with his own space where he is free from the baby; again a stair gate is very useful so the dog can be part of the family and see what is going on but is away from constant attention.

 Food and Toys

If your dog is very protective over his food/toys/yourself you may need to seek expert advice on how to stop this behaviour, as it is potentially very dangerous with small children.  Some exercises you should practise before the new arrival are:

As your dog is eating start adding nice treats to the bowl, so he learns that hands in and around his bowl are a good thing. When he is relaxed with this ask friends and other family members to do the same.

Practise taking food/bones/toys away from your dog and rewarding with good quality food treats and then returning the taken items and rewarding again. Practise teaching your dog to take food nicely, place a piece of food in a clenched fist let your dog sniff and then slowly open your hand so the food is on the flat of your palm so they gently take it.

Games

In order to have a nice calm dog around your small child you may need to alter some of the games you currently play with your dog. Stop any rough or aggressive play and tug of war games and replace with retrieve and fetch games. 

The Baby Arrives

When Mum and baby are still in hospital bring home a blanket or a couple of items of clothing that the baby has been wearing so your dog can get used to the strange new smell. On arrival home put your dog on a lead for safety but make sure it is loose so you dont pass stressful signals onto your dog. Let Mum sit down with baby in her arms and invite your dog to come and say hello and checkout the new baby.

Reward your dog for good behaviour, if the reaction is not so good take your dog away from the situation  - do not tell it off.  Try introducing them again a little later from a further distance and reward for good calm behaviour.  Take it very slowly and reward frequently.

Your dog may well become jealous of the time you are spending away from him.  A classic example of attention seeking is when he is constantly under your feet with a real risk of tripping you up.  You need to manage the situation, by putting the dog into a separate area whilst you go about daily chores. Crate training &/or tethering may also be useful for this situation.  Remember to give your dog some exclusive time every day, even if it is only to do a little basic obedience, trick training, throw a ball etc. It will make all the difference.

As Time Goes On

Children can be very rough whilst experimenting and learning about play, they have very little concept of the pain they may inflict and every dog can and will bite if provoked. 

Once the toddler and dog have forged a good relationship you may decide to relax some of your house rules to give your dog back a bit of his freedom, but remember  - no matter how much you trust your dog with your child NEVER, EVEN BRIEFLY, LEAVE THEM ALONE TOGETHER!

Recommended further reading

 

Books

Dogs and Children: A Behavioural Training Guide by Kaye Hargreaves of Wagging School Publications, 276 Glenlyon Rd, North Fitzroy, Victoria 3068.

RRP A$19.80

 

Your Dog and Your Baby by Silvia Kent.

U$24.95 (hard copy) US$ 9.87 (e-book)

"In this priceless book, Silvia Kent combines her deep knowledge of dogs with her knowledge of being a mother. Never before has there been such a need for the information contained within these pages. These are the answers to the questions and concerns mothers and mothers to be want to know about."

John Fisher, Founder, The Association For Pet Behaviour Counselors (UK)

Websites

http://www.cyberpet.com/cyberdog/articles/behavior/addbaby.htm

http://www.familydogonline.com/Babies.htm

 http://www.hsus.org/ace/13946

 http://www.cah.com/library/babiepts.php

 http://www.vcu.edu/paws/babydog.htm

 http://www.animalhealthchannel.com/newbaby/index.shtml

        Back to questions

2. We are thinking of getting a dog. What sort should we get?
This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.

        Back to questions

3. Our first dog needs company. Should we get a second dog?

        This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.
 

        Back to questions

             4. Should I let my dog have some puppies first before getting him/her desexed?

        This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.
 

1. Back to questions
   
   

   5. We are going on holiday. What should I look for in a kennel?

   Where to look:

   • Friends word of mouth referral from happy owners is the best!
   • Your local vet.
   • Dog training schools and obedience clubs.
   • Pet shop.
   • Yellow Pages.
   First impressions when you ring.
   • Are they friendly? If not go elsewhere!
   • Will they talk to you about your concerns?
   • Do they answer your questions about the level of attention?
   When you visit (always do so, as a place can sound better than it actually is), look for:
   • Happy, healthy dogs.
   • Clean, fresh water.
   • Clean runs.
   • Professional, friendly staff.
   Questions to ask about exercise and playtime:
   • Are the dogs exercised daily, if so, for how long?
   • Where are they exercised?
   • How large is the exercise area?
   • Is it concrete or grass?
   • Do they offer a choice of joint or single exercise
   • Do they provide a variety of dog toys? What sort?
   • What do they do to keep the dogs mentally stimulated?
   Questions to ask about food:
   • What is fed and when is it fed?
   • Do they leave food out if it is not eaten immediately?
   • What do they do if, due to a change in environment, a dog won't eat?
   • Do they weigh their dogs regularly to make sure that a good weight is maintained?
   Questions to ask about accommodation:
   • How many dogs does the kennel look after at its maximum capacity?
   • Do dogs share accommodation? If so, on what basis are roommates selected?
   • Is there an indoor and outdoor section to the run? How large is the run area?
   • Is the indoor section protected from the weather?
   • Is bedding provided? Is bedding off the ground?
   • How are the kennels cleaned? Do they hose down while the dog is still in the kennel?
   Questions to ask about the kennel's pre-requisites:
   • Are all dogs vaccinated and certificates shown before entry?
   • Are all dogs on a flea treatment that kills fleas on contact?
   • Are all dogs on all wormer for whip, hook, round and tapeworm?
   • Do they ask for other relevant information about your pet (e.g. afraid of thunderstorms)?
   • What specialist care do they offer for elderly dogs, timid or frightened pets, dogs suffering from separation anxiety and overweight dogs?
   • Does the kennel have a vet on call?
   Reference: Akuna Care P/L

   Back to questions
   
   

   6. Should we teach our dog the meaning of the word "NO" and, if so, when should we use it?

   This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.
   Back to questions
   
        7. Do trained dogs live longer than untrained dogs?

   Yes, of course!

   Please read the self-explanatory 'Letters to a dog' below to see why.

   January 6

   Dear Dog,

   I saw you today for the first time, just a couple houses from my own.  The school bus stopped to let out your kids, and your Mum opened the front door to let you run out and greet them.  You are a wiggly, bouncy and happy little puppy with a full belly and a shiny coat.  Your kids grabbed you up, hugged you, held you and toted you inside.  Your tail was wagging the entire time.  I thought to my self, how sweet, what away to end a long hard day. I spoke to your Mum this evening and she said that they got you from the Animal Shelter, and the kids named you Lucky.

   March 10

   Dear Lucky,

   I saw you today as I always do on my way home from work. You were already outside to greet the kids today, which seemed a little odd. The little girl got off the bus and shooed you away; she appeared to not want you jumping on her. The boy got off the bus and gave you a quick playful pat on the head, then smelled his hand and brushed you aside.  You looked confused and sad, as you went to lie by the porch.  You curled up in a tight ball on the cold ground and let out a huge sigh.  My heart felt heavy that day.

   March 21

   Dear Lucky,

   I saw you today. I was headed home, and the kids got off the bus, walked to the house, and you ran out as far as you could on your heavy chain to let them know you were there.  The little girl ignored you, the little boy told you to be quiet, when you barked for his attention.  My neighbour commented that they needed to do something with your barking because you keep them up at night. You had a bucket of water and a bowl of food, a relatively nice doghouse, but your eyes were sad and empty. I shook my head and let out a huge sigh.

    April 30

   Dear Lucky,

   I worried for you today.  You look thin, your chain heavy on your neck, your coat is dirty and falling out, you don't get up to do much anymore.  Your bucket is turned over, and I have not seen your food bowl for a few days now.  I spoke to the neighbour and asked about you.  He said you still bark at night and he saw the man of the house throw something at you the other day as he scolded you.  I shook my head in despair as I went back into my house.

   June 4

   Dear Lucky,

   My heart sank today. I was headed home, and you weren't in your yard.  A large part of me hoped you got away; another large part of me was frightened at all the other possibilities.  I asked my neighbour about you, and he said your family went on vacation and sent you back to the Animal Shelter.  I shook my head and cried for you as I went into my house.

   June 5

   Dear Dog,

   I went to the shelter today. I found you huddled in the back of a cage that had a bucket, a bowl of food, and a blanket for you to lie on.  You looked up at me as if you knew me, and my heart broke as I read your card. They did not even care enough to give them your name, and the card simply said, "Male, neutered retriever mix. Owners did not want."  I cried when a gentleman from the kennel said, "That's a sad one there.  He came from here, you know, last Christmas. Guess they just got tired of him.  He's too frightened, no one will adopt him."  I went to the counter and told them I would be back tomorrow and please don't do anything just yet.  They all kind of nodded like they heard that one before.

   June 6

   Dear Dog,

   I brought you home today.  You were scared and untrusting, but a small part of you somewhere allowed you to wag the tip of your tail when I told you that you were a good boy and that I loved you.  I gave you a new name, "Happy", because you aren't and I hope that someday you will be.  You had an accident on the floor, and when I came back to clean it up with paper towel you slunk down and whimpered as if the hand was coming for you.  I tried to choke back the tears when I thought of what you must have gone through in the past six months. I reached out and patted you and your eyes closed and your body went limp at such a gentle gesture.  "We're going to be all right," I told you. I showed you your food, and you ate voraciously, and you marvelled at the treats and toys I got for you.

   December 25

   Dear Happy,

   Good morning my best friend!  You woke me, as always, popping out from under the covers on your side of the bed, licking my face to tell me it was time for our walk.  We went through the living room and you sniffed what Santa left for us.  I hugged you and said, "Last year you were a Christmas gift, now this year, these are all yours!"  Your coat is shiny, your belly always full, and even though we found out at your first vet visit you had heartworms, you are healthy now.  As we went out for our walk, we saw your old family in the front yard. They look at you each time as if they recognize you in a way, but you don't give them a second glance.   Then I believe both our hearts stopped as we saw the children emerge from the yard holding a small playful puppy. "Isn't she just precious? We got her from the animal shelter. Hope this one works out, the other dog we got from there was so much trouble."  I sighed and refrained from pointing out that you were not the trouble. You looked up at me as if to say, "Thank you, Mum."  I kneeled down and whispered in your sweet ear, "No, it is I who thank you."

   [Reproduced with permission from T. Parsons, Newfoundland, Canada]

     The Life of an Untrained Dog

   

   I woke up one morning with my littermates. I saw Mum lying there so I went over to her to get some breakfast. Mum was warm and she licked me all over. She loved us so much. Things were good back then. Now I am bigger and live in a home with two kids and their Mum and Dad. I used to be able to come in the house and play. They even let me sleep in the house. The children would run and I would chase them around. When I was little they would let me jump on them and even playfully bite them. The family would laugh and encourage me to play like this. They gave me lots of toys such as socks, shoes, and stuffed animals. I had so much fun. Those were the days!

    As I grew bigger I would accidentally knock the children down. I would try to bite them on the cuff of their pants as they ran. I found toys like the ones my master gave me when I was younger, and I would chew them up. They started getting mad at me all the time. When I jumped up they would knee me down. One minute they were laughing at me for play biting and chewing and the next minute they would spank me for doing the very same thing. I am so confused!

   Now I spend my days, hour after hour, alone in the back yard. No one comes out to play with me. I am so happy to see them when they come out that I jump and bark with joy. I spend my days digging up the yard around me, which makes my masters mad at me. The fleas crawl all over me, which drives me crazy. I get so mad that I want to bite someone.

    The more I sit out here the madder I get. I cannot understand why they brought me home just to chain me in the yard. If my masters are unhappy with my behaviour, why not train me? Why did they encourage me to jump and bite?  Why not show me what they want me to do?

    Things have not become any better for me. Now I sit in jail. People come by my cage looking at me. I do not trust them so I bark and bare my teeth. No one wants me. Oh, no! Here comes a lady with a leash. Where is she taking me? She walks me into a room. Oh, she likes me. It's so good to be hugged again. She puts a thing around my mouth so I cannot bite. What's this? She is sticking me in my leg. Oh, I am so sleepy. What has happened to me? I am asleep now. No one can hurt me anymore.

    [Reproduced with permission from Jeff Hoffman, the Senior State Officer of the Humane Society of Ventura County, California. It was written "to make a difference in the quality of life for man's best friend, the family dog.]

   Dr Karen Overall, Head of the Veterinarian Medical School at the University of Pennsylvania, said recently that of the estimated 55 million dogs in USA, 12 million are euthanized every year, 95% of them for behavioural problems. In other words 1,319 dogs an hour die in the USA because their owners have not cared enough to take preventative action and train their puppies correctly.

   The same needless tragedies happen every day throughout Australia, where many puppies do not get to see their second birthday and the average age of dogs is estimated at three years.]

   Back to questions
   

    8. At what age should I take my puppy to puppy school?

   Q. I just have an enquiry about Puppy School.  My puppy is 12 weeks old but at 12 weeks she is not fully immunised until she receives a booster at 16 weeks, and then the vet says you need to wait a weeks after that immunisation before taking them out.

    So my question is how is it possible to start puppy pre school when puppies are not immunised fully?

   A. There is a huge amount of conflicting and confusing information and advice given by breeders, pet stores, vets and trainers.

   A medical argument is that if you take a puppy too early to puppy school s/he could get a fatal disease, therefore it is best to keep your puppy in cotton wool till s/he is four and a bit months old and has had all the required shots.

   However, there is absolutely no guarantee that a puppy that is kept in the house or backyard will not get a fatal disease, such as parvo virus, from off the shoes of a stranger coming into the house.
   
   Nowadays in most areas around Brisbane there are far less diseases about so that particular argument is less valid than it may have been in years gone by.

   The counter argument is that by the time a puppy is 4 months old it is clearly far too late for puppy school.

   It is almost 100% guaranteed that a puppy that does not get properly socialised to other puppies, things and places at a well run puppy is going to grow up developmentally retarded. Unnecessary behavioural problems inevitably develop and thousands of cute fluffy eight week old puppies never make it to their first birthday.
   
   Research in USA has shown that the risk of dieing from a fatal disease is 500 times less than having to be re-homed or euthanized because of a socially unacceptable behavioural problem.

   Provided they have had their first set of injections most modern thinking vets in Australia, as well as the RSPCA and training schools, will actively encourage owners to take puppies to puppy school from the age of eight weeks.

    Back to questions
   
     9. My puppy is often carsick. What can I do?

   This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.

   Back to questions
   
   10. My puppy nips feet and ankles. What should I do?

   This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.
   Back to questions

   11. My dog won't come when I call him. What is the best way to teach "come"?

How to teach Come not Come, Come, Come! Come!!

There are several specific steps in teaching a reliable re-call. It's essential to complete each step before moving to the next step. If you try to go to far too fast you will end up with a dog that sometimes comes if s/he feels like it or if s/he has nothing better to do!

It is extremely easy to teach your dog to have an unreliable recall and not to come to you! All you have to do is get angry with him, call him (her) over to you, and then punish him. This punishment can be intentional very stupid - or unintentional, such as in end of fun situations or to give him a bath or clip his nails. It won't take him long to learn that come means you are not all that pleasant to be around. When you call, hell think it's best to ignore you and stay away or continue having fun doing something else.

It is much easier to train a puppy that is still completely dependent on you and unsure about the world than it is to train an adult dog. However the training steps are exactly the same. The only difference is that with an adult dog that hasnt been taught properly, and therefore doesnt understand, it is best to go back to kindergarten and retrain the behaviour but using a completely different word. E. G. Instead of saying come (an unpleasant word as it has bad associations) say here (an as yet meaningless word that has the potential for pleasant associations).

Step 1/Week one: indoor recalls inside your house

a) Immediately before meal times, say your puppys/dogs name in a happy tone of voice to attract attention. As he approaches say come, once only, in an excited voice tone. While he is still moving towards you say Good boy*, once only, enthusiastically. When he arrives, put your hand on his neck/collar and then reward immediately with his meal.

[* If using a clicker as a marker signal, click instead of saying good boy]

Rewarded behaviours get repeated voluntarily and enthusiastically and your puppy will soon associate the word come with good news!

b) Repeat this mealtime procedure for two days, remembering to say come as the behaviour is happening, not beforehand. Very gradually increase the distance.

c) For the next two days start saying come a little earlier than before. Slowly and subtly alter your timing so that the word come starts being said before the behaviour happens.

d) Once you are at the stage where the word come has been properly understood - and is responded to 100% reliably then start calling him to you around the house at times other than mealtimes.

e) Attract your dogs attention, crouch down, open your arms invitingly, say come excitedly and your puppy will come at high speed. While he's running towards you praise him once with Good Boy* and immediately give him a food treat as an unexpected surprise when he arrives.

By the end of week one your puppy should come to you reliably each time he's called with a single come. If not, you should continue practising. To move to the next stage without a solid foundation indoors at home is like trying to walk before being able to crawl: it is a guaranteed recipe for a Ill come if I feel like it and have nothing better to do type of recall.

N.B.1. Only call your puppy when you're 100% certain he will respond. If he is in any way distracted/stressed by anything, and there is a chance he might not come, do NOT call him if you need him, you must go to him.

N.B. 2.If your puppy is already looking at you there is no need to say his name before saying come. If you always say his name he will start coming on his name rather than on come which is something many dogs do but you actually dont want. (It could one day be quite dangerous as when your dog is on the other side of a busy road).

N.B.3. It is best to use and teach one word at a time, not by giving multiple instructions. It is hard enough to learn the meaning of one word, let alone several. So dont do what most people do and confuse your puppy by talking a lot. Otherwise your words will remain meaningless noise!

Step 2/Week two: outdoors recalls in your backyard (NOT in the park!)

         Continue to practice comes with your puppy inside using the week one routine.

         Start playing fun come games such as ping-pong, hide and seek

         Start increasing the distances gradually up to a maximum of four metres.

         Start introducing minor distractions such as louder music, other people nearby, etc

         Start rewarding for every second come, then every third come

         Start rewarding only the very fast comes

a) Attach a long five-metre lead to your puppys collar and take your puppy outside your house, into the backyard, to practice recalls.

b) Start by walking away from the pup. Stop and call him, once only, using the same word and tone of voice used during week one.

Start with short distances, 1 metre only and then increase gradually over a week to 5 metres.

c) Follow the same procedures as indoors: Say Good Boy* as he is moving towards you, reward as a surprise immediately on arrival, gradually reduce the frequency of the rewards and reward only fast re-calls.

d) Make sure you have your puppys attention before saying come. If your puppy hesitates after you give him the first come he may not have heard you. Wait for 10 seconds before repeating the request. Never tug on the line and never, ever, pull your puppy in like a fish!

By the end of the second week, your puppy should be following you all around your garden. If he is not you need to go back a few steps - as you have tried to run before you can walk!

N.B 1. If you genuinely want a RELIABLE recall you must not allow your puppy to run free in any open area until he is fully trained. He must be on a long lead every time he is outside!

N.B 2. At about 4 5 months of age your puppy becomes more adventurous, more independent and more rebellious - just like teenagers. This is when an imperfectly taught recall breaks down. Your previously cooperative puppy may look over his shoulder at you and run the other way!

If you have taught the recall properly the first time your puppy may never pretend he never heard you. However, if this does happen, you just have to go back a few steps and start again this time it takes far less time and the rebellious (naughty) phase soon passes.

Step 3/Week three: outdoors 5 metre recalls in the park

         Continue to practice comes using week one and two routines in your backyard

         Play as many come games in your backyard as possible to make training fun.

a) Start to practice come in different locations - where there will inevitably be new distractions.  Go to as many new places as possible your local streets, neighbourhood parks, beaches, golf courses, playgrounds, etc.

b) Practice in a different location every day. [N.B. Be careful to avoid allowing your dog more than two metres of lead if there are people around especially so if there is a council inspector who can issue an on-the-spot fine!]

c) Work on distance first, 1 metre up to 5 metres. Then introduce new distractions such as joggers or skateboard riders with one-metre re-calls working towards the 5-metre distance.

Step 4/Week four: outdoors 10 metre recalls

a) Make or buy a ten-metre lead. Attach it to your puppys collar and repeat the behaviours taught outside on a 5-metre lead in the previous two weeks.

b) Take your puppy to as many different locations as you can to practice longer distance recalls. Drop the line on the ground and let your puppy drag it. If he runs in the opposite direction stop him from doing so by quickly place your foot on the line so that he cant play catch me if you can type games.

c) Always let your puppy sniff, play etc in between recalls.

Step 5/Week five: outdoors 10 metre recalls

a) Continue the week 4 exercises in different places with increasingly distracting situations and with your dog dragging the 10-metre lead.

b) Practice the exercise outside an off lead dog park with no other dogs in it.

c) Repeat the exercise with one dog in the park, then two dogs in the distance, etc.

d) When your dog is coming to you reliably and enthusiastically every time you say come, you are finally ready to progress to the final stage. Each day cut off about half a metre of the lead so that at the end of three weeks there are just a few centimetres left!

e) If you run into difficulties, re-trace your steps by tying back on some of the cut off lead.

f) Continue to reward fast comes on a random basis for the remainder of your dogs life.

N.B. 1. Use distractions (such as playing with another dog) as a training tool. Whenever you call your puppy when it is having fun, immediately release him to return to whatever he was doing before you called him. E.g. Come Good boy*, Go play. Being allowed to play with other dogs is, for the moment, a far more desired reward than a food treat.

 

12. My dog pulls on lead. What is the best way to teach "heel"?

                  5 steps for reliable loose lead walking

[These steps are identical for an 8-week-old puppy or re-training an adult dog]

N.B. When learning to drive a car, it is sensible to practice in an empty car park before going onto a main road! Similarly, trying to get to get to step 5, below, without teaching the preceding steps is a guaranteed recipe for the formation of disastrous walking habits. Do NOT even think of taking your dog for a walk until s/he knows HOW properly to go for a walk. 

1.Off lead. Follow me around the house, off lead. Keep moving away from the dog, s/he must do the following, not you. Reward frequently, every 2-3 seconds, if s/he is close to you. Make the sessions short, 3-5 seconds and increase gradually to 15-20 seconds. Be excited and interesting and happy and a fun person to be with. Who wants to follow an unenthusiastic grouch?

 Off lead: repeat above exercise in the garden as it is familiar territory there wont be many new smells or other distractions.

 2.Off lead. Start with the dog sitting on your left (either lure him/her into position or put yourself into the correct spot). Step off with your left foot (as with words, if we are consistent with our body language makes it easier to learn) and take two steps and then stop and lure the dog into a sit. Repeat 50 times, then do 4 steps >6 > 8>10 steps up to 25 metres eventually. Reward often!

 3.On lead. Get your dog used to sitting around the house and garden on a loose lead (without going for a walk). Put the lead on; take it off, reward your dog for remaining calm. Practice frequently.

 4.On lead, follow me around house and garden. The lead should NEVER be tight. In positive reinforcement training the only reason for a lead is for safety. A lead should not be used, as it is in other training methods, for education.

 5.On lead. Once the dog can walk close to you on lead in a non distracting environment, then take the show on the road - with very gradual introduction of distractions like other dogs, people, bikes, etc. Always set your dog up to succeed, step by step, so that s/he never fails and you can reward for ever-improving performances.

 [Dog parks are an ideal place to practice bad behaviour and going to one too early without 1) a reliable come and 2) being able to walk on a loose lead is another great recipe for disaster! Dog parks at quiet times can/should be used as a training area with a few exercises on lead inside the park. Then the reward for behaving well, such as doing a couple of instant sits and drops, is to take the lead off and release the dog to play.]

 N.B

         Dogs that are off lead never pull!

         If you pull your lead the dogs automatic reflex action is to resist & it will pull harder!

         If s/he pulls, do not follow your dog [which in itself is a massive reward that will reinforce the habit]. You should be the leader, not the follower! If you follow you are being well trained by your dog! Anticipate the lead becoming tight and try one of the following:

1.        Stop, bend your knees & become a tree (dogs don't pull trees.)

2.        Turn and go in the opposite direction; if s/he pulls, turn again.

3.        Walk in a left hand circle (no point in pulling!)

4.        Use fences and walls to practice along;

5.        Penalty yards = walking backwards each time the dog pulls in the direction s/he wants to go, eg. to get to the entry to the off leash park.

6.        Walking close to the street gutter will make your dog either stick close to you or else have to walk at a different level and try to straddle the gutter

• If your adolescent/adult dog has trained you then you need to go back to kindergarten & start again, as in 1-5 above

• Easy walkers (No Pull harnesses) and head collars (Gentle Leaders, Haltis, Black Dog) are interim training aids. They help you to stay in control and not give up while teaching desired behaviours. Like training wheels on a childs bicycle they should be discarded as soon as your dog can walk calmly by your side.

Back to questions

13. My dog knows how to sit when he wants to. How can I get him to be reliable?

How to teach Sit - not Sit, Sit, SIT, SIT!

 Your dog already knows how to sit and does so all the time by himself! Your job is to get your dog to sit, by use of either a verbal or a hand signal, whenever you want him to do so.

 A reliable sit (first time, and remain sitting till released or told to do something else) is the first thing that you should teach your dog to do. Why?

• A sitting dog cannot pull on lead, chase things, dig, escape or bite other dogs or people.
• Sitting for a dog is like saying please for a child: every time your dog wants to have or do something it should say please first.
• It is the easiest of all behaviours to train: you and your dog will both have immediate success.

 There are several ways of teaching sit. The traditional method is to say 'sit' while at the same time using physical pressure and pushing\pulling the dog into position and then saying 'Good dog'.

Teaching sit with modern reward-based training is equally effective and, if done correctly, the dog, learns the behaviour quickly, understands it and remembers it for all time.

 The up-to-date method for teaching an instant sit consists of the following steps:

1. Get the sit by a) either waiting for the dog to sit of its own accord or b) by luring it into position with a small piece of food. Move your hand slowly upwards from the dog's nose to the back of its head the eyes and towards the tail. The head will go upwards and, inevitably, the bottom will go downwards into a sit.

2. Mark the exact moment of contact (bottom hitting floor) with a 'That's right' signal such as an excited 'Yesss!', a click with your fingers - or by using a clicker.

3. After the mark, immediately reward the behaviour (bottom hitting floor) with the piece of food.

4. Practice the sit hand action at least 10 times a day for three days WITHOUT using any words. Your hand action, without food in the hand, soon becomes the hand signal for sit.

5. Start phasing out the use of food. Only reward every second sit, then every 3^rd sit and so on until the reward comes as an unexpected surprise on a random basis.

6.  Reward from the other hand, not the one initially used to hold the lure. Start keeping the food somewhere else, not on your body, as on a plate or dish.

7. On the fourth day, start saying 'sit' quietly AS the dog is going into the sit position.

8. Once the dog definitely associates 'Sit' with the action of sitting then, and ONLY then, start introducing the word beforehand. It will become a meaningful instruction (sit), not a shouted and frequently repeated and irrelevant command (Sit, SIT, SIT!)

9. Practice sits in many different places, inside and outside the house. Sometimes use hand signals only, sometimes use hand and verbal signals, and finally the hardest of all - verbal signals alone.

10. Increase the length of the sits from 2 seconds to 3 minutes by small daily increments of 3-5 seconds

11. Gradually start introducing distractions, such as when there is another dog 100 metres away.

Back to questions

14. My dog jumps up. How can I stop him?

The most basic law of learning is that behaviours that get rewarded are likely to be repeated. Many dogs are inadvertently rewarded with their owner's attention and eye contact when they jump to greet. Withdrawal of all attention, including the reward of paying attention & pushing the dog away and saying 'No', whenever the dog jumps will ultimately lead to the behaviour becoming extinct. 

It is physically impossible for a dog to jump up and sit at the same time. This is why teaching dog to sit instantly or go into a drop (down) position is by far and away the quickest and easiest method of preventing a dog from even thinking of becoming semi airborne.

Teaching a dog to 'drop' on request is as easy as 'sit' and the steps, which should be taken gradually, are as below:

How to teach Drop - not Drop Drop DROP!

 Your dog already knows how to drop (or down) and does so all the time by himself! Your job is to get your dog to drop by use of either a verbal or a hand signal, whenever you want him to do so.

 A reliable drop (first time, and remain dropped till released or told to do something else such as sit, stand or come is the second thing that you should teach your dog to do. Why?

• A dropped dog cannot pull on lead, chase things, dig, escape or bite other dogs or people. It is hard to bark when lying down.
• It is the second easiest of all behaviours to train: you and your dog will both have immediate success.

There are several ways of teaching drop. The traditional method is to say 'drop' while at the same time using physical pressure and pushing the dogdown or pulling its legs from underneath and then saying 'Good dog' as it collapses into position.

 Teaching drop with modern reward-based training is equally effective and, if done correctly, the dog, learns the behaviour quickly, understands it and remembers it for all time.

 The up-to-date method for teaching an instant drop consists of the following steps:

1. Get the drop by a) either waiting for the dog to drop of its own accord or b) get your dog to sit and then lure it into position with a small piece of food. Move your hand slowly downwards from the dogs nose to the floor the eyes and head will go downwards and, inevitably, the front legs will fold into a drop. Alternatively, sit on the floor and lure your small dog under your bent knees.

2. Mark the exact moment of contact (stomach hitting floor) with a 'That's right' signal such as an excited 'Yesss!' a click with your fingers - or by using a clicker.

3. After the mark, immediately reward the behaviour (stomach hitting floor) with the piece of food.

4. Practice the drop hand action at least 10 times a day for three days WITHOUT using any words. Your hand action, without food in the hand, soon becomes the hand signal for drop.

5. Start phasing out the use of food. Only reward every second drop, then every 3^rd drop and so on until the reward comes as an unexpected surprise on a random basis.

6.  Reward from the other hand, not the one initially used to hold the lure. Start keeping the food somewhere else, not on your body, as on a plate or dish.

7. On the fourth day, start saying 'drop' quietly AS the dog is going into the drop position.

8. Once the dogs definitely associates 'Drop' with the action of dropping then, and ONLY then, start introducing the word beforehand. It will become a meaningful instruction ('drop'), not a shouted and frequently repeated and irrelevant command (Drop, DROP, DROP!)

9. Practice drops in many different places, inside and outside the house. Sometimes use hand signals only, sometimes use hand and verbal signals, and finally the hardest of all - verbal signals alone.

10. Increase the length of the drops from 2 seconds to 3 minutes by small daily increments of 3-5 seconds

11. Gradually start introducing distractions, such as when there is another dog 100 metres away.

Back to questions

15. My dog barks all the time. What should I do to keep him quiet?

There are eight ways only to change undesired behaviour

Karen Pryor in her groundbreaking book, Don't Shoot The Dog describes the eight possible methods of changing undesired behaviour, both in humans and in dogs. There are four negative methods for STOPPING unacceptable behaviour & four positive methods to TEACH an alternative acceptable behaviour.

Method 1: Shoot the Animal

Method 2: Punishment

Method 3:  Negative reinforcement

Method 4: Extinction

Method 5: TRAIN AN INCOMPATIBLE BEHAVIOUR

Method 6: PUT THE BEHAVIOUR ON CUE

Method 7: SHAPE ABSENCE OF UNWANTED BEHAVIOUR

Method 8: CHANGE THE MOTIVATION

Method 1.      Shoot the Animal. Firing an employee, divorcing a spouse, selling a dog or having its vocal cords cut are all variations of the same method. If you make it impossible for the behaviour to happen in your presence the undesired behaviour, as far as you are concerned, is forever eliminated.

Even when used as a last resort surgically de-barking is ethically questionable. In some Australian States, & several ccountries overseas, it is illegal. Putting a dog to sleep is severe and very final. Either way, the unfortunate dog learns nothing.

Method 2.       Punishment. Hitting the dog, spraying it in the face with water, or giving it an electric shock may temporarily suppress on-going behaviour. However, again the dog learns nothing - other than to distrust people and be confused, fearful & sometimes defensively aggressive. When it re-offends the punishment is often escalated to the point of violence and abuse.

Method 3.    Negative reinforcement always includes a punisher and often has undesired side effects such as avoidance, resistance, and passivity.  An example of negative reinforcement to stop barking is shining a torch at night into a barking dogs eyes at night (a punishment) & then turning it off when the dog stops barking.

Method 4.       Extinction. Bad behaviour that is totally ignored for long enough usually tends to disappear or extinguish, as in a dog that has developed a habit of begging for food at the dining room table. However, a dog that barks at the disappearing postman is self-rewarded. The behaviour will likely remain unless one of the four much more practical positive methods, below, of changing behaviour is used.

Method 5.     Training an incompatible behaviour. A dog that has learned to sit instantly on request cant jump onto people. Similarly, being in a drop position is incompatible with barking.

 Method 6      Put the behaviour on cue. Using reward based training it is easy to teach a dog to bark on cue. In the absence of the command the dog sees no point to barking.

 Method 7.    Shape the absence of unwanted behaviours. If the absence of barking, or being quiet, is frequently rewarded the dog will enjoy being quiet. Saying the words Quiet or Shush while the dog is not barking, as information, will auto-train the words so that the words soon become a meaningful  & instantly obeyed instruction to be silent.

 Method 8.      Change the motivation and the need to bark is eliminated. Dogs that bark excessively are usually lonely, frightened, under exercised or bored! This method is the best, as well as the easiest, of all the methods to implement. All family members can use this method safely.

        A dog that is allowed inside the house, with the rest of the family pack, is less stressed and has fewer behavioural problems than an outside dog.

      A dog that has lots of mental stimulation, such as challenging home-alone toys and well-stuffed Kongs, has no need to find its own amusement.

        A dog that is adequately exercised sleeps well at night and doesn't bark aimlessly.  
******************************************************************


Notes taken from talk by Dr Ian Dunbar,Veterinary Animal Behaviourist

Veterinarians and Trainers Conference

Dec 7, 8^th and 9^th 2002

Nara Seaworld Resort, Gold Coast, Queensland. D

 Barking blows most peoples minds, most owners - and trainers (especially those who use punishment) - havent a clue what to do!

 What is training?

1. Getting behaviours we want by putting the behaviour on cue by saying the word
2. Eliminate behaviours we dont want

 Five rules to follow:

1. Reward the dog when it is doing something right (like being quiet).

[Most people, and many trainers, do the exact opposite they ignore a quiet dog and punish a barking dog, shouting at it or throwing things at it. The dog often thinks the owner is joining in the barking game and barks even more! ]

2. Every barking spree is a training opportunity to reward cessation of barking. Reward instantly.
3. Get rid of dogs food bowl altogether replace a bad habit with a good habit.

[When the food is in Kongs and the dog is chewing it is lying down, not up barking. (It must have an established Kong habit first, so if not, go back to puppy training using short term and long term confinement methods to creating Kong habit, etc]

4. Teach speak on cue, quiet/shush on cue
5. Train at first in a BPS (best possible training scenario) and then move to WPS (Worst possible training scenario). Most people try and train their dogs at 3 a.m. when it is barking at a prowling cat not a BPS!
6. Bomb proof the speak and shush commands in increasingly distracting situations so that your dog will perform, on cue, at any time in any place.

[In many animal shelters in USA the modern way to stopping barking is to use all or none reward training method, which quickly leads quickly to silent kennels. A person walks past a row of kennels, all dogs are instantly barking.  He looks for a non-barking dog and rewards it.  He then keeps walking up and down and rewarding only the non-barker. Other dogs will soon start to stop and look and be quiet.

    Next day the procedure is repeated and the kennels are quieter quicker. The same thing is done for     several days. At the end of a week the person has a dog at his side, as an extra distraction, and       goes back to the beginning of teaching what is a new behaviour. ]

 For the home dog owner to teach speak Dunbar suggests:

 1.Request (speak)

 2. Lure (anything that makes the dog bark, usually the doorbell, or a game of tug of war, growling at the dog)

 3. Response (dog barks) 

  4.Reward (good boy)

To teach Shush, when dog is barking he suggests:

1. Request (shush!)

2.Lure (whispering, clapping hands, waggling food in front of dogs nose if sniffing it cant simultaneously bark).

3.Response = dog quietens and stops barking. 

4. Reward the dog with a 'to-die-for' piece of food

 Bomb proof the speak and shush commands in increasingly distracting situations so that your dog will perform, on cue, at any time in any place. 

Recommended websites:

www.pethealth.com.au/index.cfm?Fuseaction=wysiwygpage&wysiwyg_id=320

        This is part of the website of Brisbane's Dr Cam Day, Animal Behaviour Veterinarian. It contains excellent advice on appropriate and inappropriate methods to barking problems as well as many other common problem behaviours.

 Back to questions

16. My dog will only do things for me if I have food available. What should I do?

When training a new behaviour the use of food as a lure and, once the behaviour is completed, a reward is a sensible practice in modern, positive reinforcement training.

However, if your dog is continuously rewarded/reinforced for the same behaviour it quickly learns to do the behaviour only if the food is around. If it cant see the food it basically goes on strike - a frustrating state of affairs.

In order to prevent this "why bother, will not do" attitude by your dog, the following tips are suggested:

• Some dogs are more motivated by food than other dogs but, since food is essential to survival, all healthy dogs at some stage of the day feel hungry.
• Before meals is an intelligent training time to teach a dog. There should be no such thing as a free lunch.
• If your dog hasn't finished its meal within 5 minutes, pick up the bowl until the next meal is due.
• Never, ever, leave food down for your dog to free feed during the day.
• Any food used for training should be part of your dog's daily calorie intake: the next meal should be reduced to take into account all training treats.
• When training something new, only use the same piece of food as a lure to entice a new behaviour AND as a reward from the same hand for a day or so.
• Continue to use a reward for another few training sessions, until the dog understands the behaviour, but reward from the other hand - with a different piece of food.
• Your hand action is quickly understood by the dog as being the hand signal for the behaviour.
• This signal should be gradually faded, made less pronounced, until it is hardly noticeable.
• Start using the lure hand without any food in it.
• At first, reward your dog each and every time it does the new behaviour, but soon change to rewarding every second time, then every third time, etc.
• Now start to reward on a completely random or intermittent basis - the unpredictability will make your dog work far harder to earn the reward.
• Avoid keeping food in a place that is visible to the dog. Have the food treats out of sight, such as in a back pocket or on a plate.

According to one of the world's foremost Animal Behaviourist Veterinarians, Dr Ian Dunbar, your dog should soon understand:

• That if there is no treat in your hand, it might still be rewarded. Don't make the common mistake of rewarding sub-par performances; rewards for increasingly better performances should always be a surprise, not a right!
• That just because a treat is available, it doesn't mean it will necessarily get it.
• That just because there's no food treat on you, doesn't mean there's no reward at all. Food is sometimes not appropriate, or much less of a reward than what your dog wants to do right now. 
• "Life rewards", such as chasing a toy, herding sheep, going for a walk in the park, having a ride in the car or playing with another dog are often more rewarding than food. They just take a bit longer than with food before your training session can restart!

Back to questions

17. I have lost my dog. What should I do?

Losing a dog is an emotional event, especially if s/he never returns. These suggestions will increase the likelihood of getting your pet back:

• A dog that is sick or injured may often seek out a hiding place so, firstly, do a thorough search of your home, in cupboards, under the house, behind bushes and in the garden shed. 
• Next, check with your neighbours and the street where the dog was lost or last seen.
• Call out to your dog and make a sound s/he will relate to food e.g. rattle a dinner dish, bang on a can, and shake a container of favourite food or treats.
• Set up a "sniff trail" by putting items of clothing you've worn along your fence line so that the dog can "smell home".
• Call the vet clinics in the area. If your dog is taken to a vet, as sometimes happens after a car accident, they will try to identify it and contact the owner.
• Some dogs are stolen from backyards, cars left outside a corner store or from where s/he has been tied to a railing. These unfortunate dogs have, if they are micro-chipped, a better chance of ultimately being reunited with their owners.
• Check with your council to find out which dog pound services your area. Go there every day to check for yourself. Your description may not match the bedraggled dog s/he may have become by the time s/he reaches the pound.
• Print "Lost Dog" notices, preferably with a photograph. Post these in a wide radius around the area; include shopping centre notice boards, local post offices, libraries, laundromats, pet supply stores, veterinary offices and grocery stores.
• Check out "found" sections of your local papers and consider placing a "lost pet" ad and offering a reward.
• Make sure there is no "next time" once your dog is safely back home. Micro-chipping is excellent, but also always ensure that s/he always wears a collar with identity disk (name and telephone number).
• Practice obvious management techniques, especially for proven escape artists. Keep the front gate shut, build a higher fence and/or put chicken wire at the base to prevent your dog from digging his/her way out.

           Reference: Dog-e-data

Back to questions

18. My dog is anxious. Does my dog suffer from "separation anxiety"?

Separation anxiety occurs in dogs that have not been taught how to enjoy being alone in their own company. These dogs often show their distress before the owner leaves through either excitement or depression. However, the most important signs of anxiety usually occur within half an hour of the owner's departure. These signs include:

• Aggression when the owner leaves - growling or nipping at ankles.
• Vocalisation: barking, whining, howling.
• Destructive behaviour - chewing, digging, and tearing up furniture.
• Self-mutilation - excessive licking, hyperactivity, constant pacing.
• Urination or defection in the house.
• Diarrhoea, vomiting or constipation.
• Escaping.

The severity of these behaviours, which and how many of them occur, varies widely among individuals and breeds.

Some people advocate trying to suppress undesirable behaviours caused by separation anxiety, especially excessive barking, via punishment and negative reinforcement methods. Quick fix techniques can actually increase anxiety, as they do not go to the underlying cause of the problem. Side effects of punishment are that the relationship between the owner and their dog suffers and usually other problems soon surface.

For a veterinary behaviourist or behavioural trainer familiar with separation anxiety, it is relatively clear in these cases what is going on. If the owner is willing to devote time and work with the animal, the chances for a successful resolution are good. Leadership and rank reduction programmes, positive reinforcement for good behaviour, desensitisation and counter-conditioning are so effective that the problem is usually solvable without turning, as a last resort, to drugs.

Each dog is unique and these issues are discussed appropriately at a first assessment. If the problem is complex and beyond our level of expertise &/or might also require medication, then we will unhesitatingly refer to a specialist veterinarian - being a vet who has then spent years of further study to gain an additional university degree in animal behaviour.

Back to questions

19. What should I do to help my dog overcome genuine "separation anxiety"?

Before beginning work with separation anxiety, it is important to understand that a dog driven by anxiety to destructiveness, house-soiling or frantic vocalizing is not able to control these behaviours. It is an illness and definitely not a problem, despite old fashioned advice to the contrary, to be solved by punishment! 

There is no "quick fix" for separation anxiety and getting another pet to keep the first dog company can actually increase the anxiety.

A video 'spy' camera can be purchased at Dicks Smith, Tandy or Oz Spy for approximately $60. An 8 hour video can reveal a great deal about what a dog does when the owners are out! The information provided can cut out a lot of expensive guesswork and, straight off, lead to an accurate assessment of the problem and the most appropriate solution .

All dogs should, as a minimum, be able to do the six basic control behaviours - sit, stand, drop, stay, come and walk calmly on a loose lead. If they can't, they should be taught them as a matter of course so that the owner is able to control their dog in everyday situations.

A dog (or a person) that is not calm can not think, and if s/he can not think s/he can not learn . So it is absolutely necessary to lower the dog's distress before s/he can learn acceptable behaviours. To do this requires the following process  - below - of de-sensitising the dog to the owner's departures, and to being alone.

Once some progress has been made, counter-conditioning - that is, teaching the dog to do something when s/he is left alone that is the opposite to anxious, destructive or vocal behaviour - can begin to change the way the dog feels about being alone.

DESENSITISATION

1. Start by deliberately lowering the emotional tone of departures and arrivals. Anxious dogs over-react to this. A simple obedience "sit-stay" to the dog should be low key and unemotional. They should not be prolonged or soothing/gushing goodbyes. Arrivals in the evening should similarly be unemotional until such time as the dog is under control with all four paws firmly on the ground. 
2. Whatever the damage in the house when arriving home, ignore the dog for the first five minutes; clean up the mess without the dog being present and without reprimanding it at any stage.
3. Knowing that the dog can correctly anticipate departures by observing people's preparations and routines, an owner should mix those cues! Put on a coat, pick up the car keys and briefcase, and then sit down and have a cup of tea and read the paper.
4. Go out to the car in a dressing gown and drive around the block! When on holiday or at weekends pretend to get ready for work. Go out to the car several times, then come back and do something around the house.
5. Every day, several times a day, leave the dog alone for brief intervals. Begin by closing a door between the owner and the dog inside the house, for just a minute or two. Discover what his/her anxiety threshold is, and stay below it... even if it is only 30 seconds! Progress is achieved by minute increments. Gradually extend the absences, but vary the lengths.

It is useful to know the dog's pattern when in the throes of panic over separation. Some dogs are the most distressed as the owner walks out of the door, quickly expend their energy and then subside. Others work themselves up to a full frenzy within the first 15 or 20 minutes after being alone. A video tape, mentioned above, will greatly assist in answering important questions.

COUNTER-CONDITIONING

Counter-conditioning means getting the dog used to doing something else instead of, and mutually exclusive to, the undesired behaviours.

When the animal has been somewhat desensitised s/he will be capable of rational thought while the owner is away.

Kong toys are excellent when filled with food and sometimes given to the dog just before the owner leaves. The dog is hungry and will soon start actually looking forward to the owner leaving! Once the owner has gone, the dog can spend the next hour or so happily hunting for its breakfast.

MANAGEMENT/SAFE CONFINEMENT
The behaviours of dogs driven by separation anxiety often endanger household furnishings and the dog itself. So, before the desensitisation process has been completed , it is essential to have a safe method of confinement.

Crating such a dog often makes the panic worse. Training to accept crating is a good idea for the long term, but it is not an immediate solution. A sturdy kennel set up in a utility room or kitchen (if house-soiling occurs) or in an interior room (if noise is the problem) should be furnished minimally: a water bowl fixed to the floor or wall,  no food, and no toys which could hurt the dog if frantically chewed.

A veterinarian can prescribe tranquillisers for this interim period if the dog is so distressed that s/he hurts himself trying to escape. If the vet is not also a qualified animal behaviourist, they might refer the dog so that the correct prescription with correct dosage is prescribed.

When the owner is committed to the dog, the methods outlined here will work very well. In nearly all cases, the confinement and desensitising measures can be dispensed with as the dog develops a normal tolerance for being left alone. However, some dogs may remain anxiety-prone all their lives, and when under stress require repetition of the desensitising process.

 MEDICATION

Occasionally it will be necessary to use medication over several months This should always be done in consultation with a         veterinarian or, if and where possible, a veterinarian who is also additionally qualified with a degree in animal behaviour.
    
However, any medication such as "Clomicalm" or the newer "Alprazolam" by itself is not the right answer - it must be given in conjunction with a well planned behaviour  modification programme.

  Back to questions

20. What is "positive reinforcement" training?

The secret to all good animal training is to understand that behaviours that are rewarded are likely to happen again. The rewards develop and strengthen the behaviour - they 'reinforce' the behaviour.  Dolphins have been taught this way for years and modern trainers now realise that dogs  trained the same way will give fantastic performances.

In the late 1930s Professor B. F. Skinner from Harvard discovered that rats and all animals can be taught to perform a series of complex operations voluntarily in order to obtain the benefit of obtaining an essential need such as a piece of food.

Skinner's views that there was no need for punishment in training any kind of animal were at first ridiculed and/or ignored. However, over the years, people seeking to improve human and animal education have increasingly understood his ideas and adopted his methods.

Positive reinforcement for training dogs was first used in Australia in 1976 at the Kintala Dog club in Melbourne. Its founder, the late David Weston, had become "increasingly disenchanted with the method of training used by dog clubs in general.".

He noted that "training essentially consisted of jerking the dog in the neck with a chain, physically pressuring it into position and either growling at the dog using commanding voice tones or rewarding it with a pat and verbal praise" [Dog Training: the Gentle Modern (Unique Australian) Method].

So negative reinforcement methods (check chains, physical force and manipulation) were totally banned at Kintala.

Nowadays other dog clubs, private owners and organisations such as the RSPCA only use positive reinforcement methods where:

A new behaviour is broken down into several individual parts, each of which is learned before taking the next step. The dog is set up to succeed.

Any improvement is rewarded - at first usually with food. Food is essential to survival and therefore a much more powerful motivator than a non-essential such as a pat or praise.

A poor behaviour is simply ignored. The punishment is "not rewarding" and the habit soon extinguishes - as with humans where a poor joke is not rewarded with laughter.

Once a desired behaviour is learned, food is phased out. It is replaced with other reinforcements such as praise, toys or life rewards doing whatever the dog most wants to do next.

The dog realises that it has the ability to affect what happens to it. It will be paid, or reinforced, in return for working correctly. It is a win/win situation.

Many dog trainers have seen the incredible results of positive reinforcement training with the family pet dog, as well as in competitions. They have welcomed the accelerated learning curve, as well as the vitality and initiative to experiment, that comes when animals learn when they want to and not when they have to.

Positive, reward based reinforcement training makes rapid progress and is fun for both teacher and student.

Back to questions
 

21. How does "compulsion" interfere with training my dog?

Compulsive training has been around for centuries and, because it is effective, many traditional trainers today still use force as their method of choice (e.g. use of an electric collar or check chain).

Other people have found, for any of the following reasons, that compulsion does not work for them or their dogs as enjoyably or efficiently as do the newer and more effective techniques of positive reinforcement training - especially when used with a marker signal.

• "No", by definition, is negative. "No", or the equivalent word in over 5000 other human languages, comes with a lot of emotional body language - such as frowning and looking unpleasant.  "No" might tell a dog we are angry, have a bad attitude and are upset but it does not teach a dog what to do.
• Punishment, such as pulling on a check chain or giving an electric shock and the negative reinforcement  - when the pressure or current are turned off - teaches a dog how to learn by avoiding something harsh or unpleasant.
• It is, however, basically unfair to teach a new behaviour by eliminating all unwanted behaviours through harsh words, reprimands, punishment and negative reinforcement. It is fairer, and far quicker, to eliminate guesswork by teaching the right behaviour first up.
• Some owners confuse lack of response with disobedience, rather than with lack of understanding. So in frustration they increase the frequency and intensity of the punishment by shouting louder, pulling harder - sometimes both - or turning up the voltage.
• When pain or fear are introduced into training an animal starts to wonder what is going to happen to it next. Its mind is elsewhere and so it cannot and does not concentrate properly.
• Dogs that are compulsively trained offer minimal compliance. Some dogs work brilliantly but in reality just do enough to get by.
• It is quite inefficient to give hundreds, sometimes thousands, of collar corrections with a check chain in order to teach a dog to, say, 'heel'.
• A great amount of dog training has more to do with owner's egos than with education of the dog. In reality it is abuse.
• If dogs are punished for incorrect behaviour, they often become stressed. When they are unclear as to what is required, and are afraid, they are less likely to offer any behaviour.
• When dogs are fearful of their owners they shut down completely to avoid unpleasant consequences. Dogs like people, learn best when they have a good and trusting relationship and respect people rather than fear them.
• Traditional training is often not much fun or motivating for either the owner or the dog. It can become a chore for the owner and dreaded by the dog. Consequently the drop out rate is high ,all efforts at "training" cease and the dog has no option but to self-train for the rest of his/her life.
• When dogs learn because they have to, they learn slowly and soon forget. With positive reinforcement training, they enjoy training sessions, learn quickly because they want to and they remember what they have learned. 

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22. Should we have a first aid kit for our dog and, if so, what should be in it?

        This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.

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23. What do I need to do to  become a dog training instructor?

        This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.

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 24. We are considering the use of an electric collar. What, if any, are the  disadvantages?

    This section is being updated and will be posted here shortly.

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