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1. "At what age should I take my puppy to puppy school?"  - Oliver Beverly
2. "Help! How do I choose the right puppy school?"  - Oliver Beverly
3. "Any Dog Can Live Calmly, Even Yours!"  - Madelaine Gabriel
4. "Effective Leadership" - Karin Larsen Bridge
5  "The Ins and Outs Of a Dog in the House"  - Karin Larsen Bridge
6."Why do we train with food?" - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
7 "Producing Change in Obedience Clubs" - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
8.* "Accentuate the Positive"  - Karin Larsen Bridge
9. Boredom Busters" - Karin Larsen Bridge
10." The Perfect Puppy - bringing up the baby"  - Karin Larsen Bridge
11."Chewing"  - Karin Larsen Bridge
12. * "Choosing the right school" - Karin Larsen Bridge
14.* "Clicker Training" - Karin Larsen Bridge
15."Dog Sports - tracking, field trials, obedience, shutzhund" - Karin Larsen Bridge
16.  "Agility" - Karin Larsen Bridge
17."Flyball" - Karin Larsen Bridge
18. "Dog Dancing" - Karin Larsen Bridge
19. "How to raise a confident dog" - Karin Larsen Bridge
20.  "How to raise a child safe dog" - Karin Larsen Bridge
21."Dog Aggression. Why nice dogs do bad things" - Karin Larsen Bridge
22. "Indoor Winter Activities" - Karin Larsen Bridge
23. "Latch Key Canines - the modern malaise - Karin Larsen Bridge
24."No pull walking - realistic expectation or impossible dream?" - Karin Larsen Bridge
25."Off Leash" - Karin Larsen Bridge
26."Walking on Lead" - Karin Larsen Bridge
27."Future article to be inserted here
28.* "Puppy Pre-Schools" - Karin Larsen Bridge
29."The top ten commands  - and how to teach them - Karin Larsen Bridge
30."Recycled Love" - Karin Larsen Bridge
31.* "Six Quick Tricks" - Karin Larsen Bridge
32."Teaching Your Dog to Swim" - Karin Larsen Bridge
33."Positive Training - what it is and what it is NOT" - Karin Larsen Bridge
34.*  "Food is not the issue" - Karin Larsen Bridge
35.* "Frequently encountered misconceptions" - Karin Larsen Bridge
36. "The value of training your dog" - Karin Larsen Bridge
37."Applying Operant Training To People" - Karin Larsen Bridge
38. House Manners for All Dogs  - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
39. Jumping Up - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
40. "House Training Your Puppy"  - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
41. "Problems with other dog"  - Dr Cyn D. Fisher
42. " A Hound in the House" - Karin Larsen Bridge
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1.At what age should I take my puppy to puppy school?

[Published in the August-September 2006 Newsletter of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia]
By Oliver Beverly, C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training, Brisbane

   

There is a bewildering amount of conflicting advice given by various breeders, pet stores, trainers and vets as to the ideal age to take a puppy to puppy school. Unfortunately the result is often that confused owners postpone making a decision and their in next to no time adolescent dogs end up missing out and not being taken to puppy school at all.

A medical argument from some breeders and vets is that if we take a puppy too early to puppy school s/he could get a fatal disease, such as distemper or parvo virus. Therefore it is best to keep our puppies in cotton wool, quarantined and isolated and, various people advise, not even allowed on the ground outside till two weeks after their last vaccination.

The counter argument is from other breeders, pet stores, vets and trainers who take into consideration both the medical and behavioural risks involved. They look at the bigger picture, weigh up the pros and cons and conclude that the latter risks far outweigh the former. By the time a puppy is 16-18 weeks old s/he is almost a teenager and many undesired habits may have formed and it is much too late for puppy school!

Dr Lyn Upton, from Upton and Upton Veterinary Surgeons in the Brisbane Bayside suburb of Capalaba points out there is no absolute guarantee anyway that a puppy kept in the house and/or backyard for the first four and a half months of life could not get parvo virus from the shoes of a stranger or even a family member entering the house and garden.

Due to the generally widespread use of vaccines, in most areas around Australia there are far fewer instances of diseases than in the past. At Dr Uptons state of the art and very busy modern surgery puppies attend puppy school from eight weeks onwards. Dr Upton has not seen a case of distemper for many years, so the medical reason to keep a puppy isolated is less valid than it may have been in years gone by.

Dr Debbie Calnon from Melbourne, a Delta accredited Canine Good Citizen Instructor, a member of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia and a Veterinary Behaviourist (a vet with additional university qualifications in animal behaviour), says, "I strongly agree with Dr Upton that the closer the puppies can be to 8 weeks of age for puppy school the better. The only exception may be in a local area that has perhaps had an outbreak of parvovirus, etc. Even then, with proper client education I'd still be recommending 8 weeks."

It is almost 100% guaranteed that a four and a half month old puppy that has not been appropriately socialised to people, other puppies, things (e.g. skateboards, bicycles, horses, fire engines, etc), as well as a variety of surfaces and different places is likely to grow up developmentally retarded. More importantly the puppy is likely to have poor bite inhibition to people.  Other less serious but equally unnecessary behavioural problems also often develop and thousands of adorable fluffy eight week old puppies never make it to their first birthday.

  

Ursula, the piglet, at C.L.E.A.R Dog Trainings Sunday morning puppy classes

Dr Ian Dunbar, one of the world's leading Veterinary Behaviourists and founder of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers, once said that it takes only two days from arriving in his/her new home for a puppy's death warrant to be signed. Many owners have not become sufficiently educated and, through no fault of their own, are doing many things wrongly that lead to inevitable behavioural problems.

For the very reason of knowing how to do things correctly - and what common mistakes to avoid, especially re house training it is crucial that owners, especially first time ones, attend a good puppy school sooner rather than later. There they will obtain correct advice, recommended reading and good puppy class handouts such as those contained in the invaluable puppy school CD recently produced by Dr Calnon.

Research in the USA has shown that the risk of dieing from a fatal disease is 500 times less than having to be re-homed or euthanized because of a socially unacceptable behavioural problem such as house soiling, jumping up, biting, aggression, destroying furniture, being overly excited or generally an out of control adolescent lunatic.

There are an estimated 55 million dogs in the USA. Dr Karen Overall, Head of the Veterinarian Medical School at the University of Pennsylvania, says, 12 million dogs are euthanized every year, 95% of them for behavioural problems. In other words, 1,319 dogs an hour die because many of their owners have been either ignorant or too busy or have not cared enough to give them a head start in life by way of adequate education.

In Queensland, where statistically many more puppies die each year from eating snail bait or getting tick paralysis or cane toad poisoning than from a fatal disease, there is an additional reason not to postpone attending a well run puppy school. Owners have often not been made aware by their breeder, pet store or vet if they have yet been to one of the risks and that they need to take several necessary precautions from day one.

Nowadays all around Australia there are many forward thinking training schools, dog clubs, vet surgeries, pet stores and organisations like the RSPCA who understand the bigger picture. They actively encourage owners to take their eight week old puppies, provided they have had their first injection, to their well run puppy schools where, naturally, all reasonable hygiene precautions should be taken.

C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training 2006

 2. Help! How do I choose the right puppy school?

By Oliver Beverly, C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training, Brisbane
[Published in the October - November 2006 Newsletter of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia]

 I have a nine week Labrador puppy, Max, that I am thinking of taking to puppy school. There are three places that run classes close to where we live. I am not sure which one to take him to. My friend in Brisbane came to you for puppy school and then your follow on course. She said that a good one could really help my puppy but that a bad one can lead to problems. What is the difference and what are the things I should look for before I decide?

Trainers are frequently asked similar questions by people who love their puppies dearly but have little idea as to how to raise them. They are finding that they and their adorable fluffy eight week old pets are unable to cope with the stresses involved in growing up. Many puppies with well intentioned but uninformed owners, or owners who follow outdated information and incorrect or dangerous advice, soon turn into uncontrollable teenagers.

These puppies may wreak mayhem and cause family friction. After the novelty factor wears off the pets become pests. Before long the puppies (even physically and psychologically healthy puppies from a breeder or the $1000+ fashionable designer-dogs) have grown into adolescent hooligans. They end up in the give-away section of the weekend classifieds or on a one way trip to the RSPCA or Animal Welfare League.

When the late David Weston, founder of the Kintala Dog Club in Melbourne, first introduced puppy school into Australia in the mid 1970s he was way ahead of his times. These days the necessity for proper and pleasant early learning is fortunately much more widely understood. Puppy schools are run all over the country at dog clubs, animal shelters such as the RSPCA, dog training schools and increasingly at many vet surgeries and pet stores.

Traditional compulsive training strategies are on the decline but are still practiced, even at puppy school. Most people long ago realised the inappropriateness of techniques such as alpha rolls and neck scruffing - particularly with puppies. It is widely accepted that taking a puppy early in life to a well run puppy class that uses modern positive methods gives a puppy of any breed a head start to their future life.

However, taking a puppy to a positive class that is poorly run can also result in negative and frightening experiences. Attending such a puppy class can be almost as counter productive as going to an Im Alpha - do it or else! type of class. Both are a recipe for untold future behaviour problems.

A large group of trainers, veterinarians and veterinary behaviourists from around Australia recently attended the three day Terrys Legacy to Oz continuing education seminar held by Sydneys Hills District Kennel and Training Club. The key speaker was internationally renowned dog trainer Terry Ryan from USA, author of numerous brilliant books including her latest Coaching People to Train Dogs.

She said that puppy classes in the USA have changed considerably since they first started there in 1965. She believed that going to a puppy school can be the best thing to happen to a puppy but that it can also be the worst thing.

One of her major objections was that many positive puppy classes in America are being run by people with inadequate qualifications, skills and knowledge. These instructors may be gaining experience but at the same time they are quite likely to be messing up other peoples puppies and doing something that can cause a puppy a great deal of long term harm.

In an unregulated industry where anybody can at any time call themselves the worlds best dog trainer it is a case of buyer beware . If someone has been doing puppy schools for decades, read all the books and manuals, possibly even written one or has a degree in companion animal studies or a certificate in dog training, it does not necessarily follow that they are successfully running a good and sought after puppy school.

When making enquiries to find a high-quality puppy school a sensible owner will take the time to find out who is highly recommended. They will then do their own research and, if necessary, be prepared to drive further afield than to the nearest vet surgery or dog club.

With a prepared check list of questions it is easier to reach a correct decision. Most of the things to look for are answered by simply watching a class beforehand. If that is not practical the next best thing is talking to several people who have been there about their impressions.

   At C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training Sunday morning puppy school

Some suggestions for a check list include but are not limited to the following:

1.      Is the person who answers the telephone or greets people at the counter of the pet store, dog club, training school or vet surgery - knowledgeable, friendly, interested and caring? (If the replies are vague, evasive or inadequate score zero out of twenty. Persevere but begin thinking of alternatives. (--/20)

2.      Who takes the puppy classes? Do they have an excellent reputation? Do they have good communication and people skills? How widespread is their experience and what are their areas of expertise? Do they listen to the owners needs and expectations? Do they find out pertinent details about the puppys background and lifestyle prior to the beginning of the first class? Are they welcoming? Do they have a sense of humour? Can they control a class fairly and impartially? Do they keep in touch and follow up throughout the course and after it has finished? (--/20)

3.      What are their qualifications? How experienced are they at running well attended puppy classes? Are they interesting and able to keep peoples attention? Are they knowledgeable about all aspects of canine development and many different breeds? Have they raised a puppy or bred a litter of puppies? Do they have a genuine love of and affection for dogs?

Score ten if they are a Level lV vet nurse with additional accredited qualifications in behavioural dog training or a similarly qualified breeder or experienced trainer using gentle modern training methods. Score zero if they are an inexperienced vet clinic receptionist, a junior instructor at a dog club or a salesperson at a pet store. They may never have owned a dog and know only a little more than the average first time pet owner. Dont let them practice on your puppy! (--/20)

4.      How many puppies are there per instructor? Are the classes too big - more than eight - or too small - less than four? Does the instructor have an assistant? Are the assistants well-informed, friendly and helpful? Do they wear appropriate clothing and footwear for dog training? Are they in uniform? Do they look professional? (--/20)

5.      How and when do puppy to puppy interactions occur? At the beginning of each class or later on and only as a result of calm behaviour? Is the first item on the agenda a general (and often disastrous) free for all socialisation with all puppies playing together? Are barriers or play pens used to separate the puppies? How many puppies are allowed to play with each other at any one time? What happens if one of the puppies is a bully? What allowances are made for shy puppies? Is puppy play frequently interrupted with the puppy coming back to the owner? (--/20)

6.      Are the puppies calm and settled and stress free throughout the class? Are the owners alert and interested? Are they all puppies and people having fun and happy to be there? (--/10)

7.      Is it possible and is it easy to observe a puppy class in order to observe first hand before deciding to attend it? (If the answer is negative, for any reason - e.g. lack of space, not wanting other people to copy their methods or ideas! score zero. (--/10)

8.      Where are the classes held? Church hall, school gymnasium, basket ball court, sports field changing rooms, vets waiting room, vets car park, groomers parlour, pet store warehouse, industrial shed or, if in the tropics, on the beach under a coconut palm? Are the premises, whether indoors or outdoors or a combination of both, clean and safe for puppies? Is there adequate space, of at least three meters, between puppies or are they crammed into a small waiting room? What are the various surfaces that the puppy will be able to experience tiles, concrete, carpet, rubber, sand, grass? Does the class setting provide a welcoming and good environment for learning? Is it free of interruptions? (--/10)

9.      When does the next course start? Is it a fixed week class or a flexi week one? What happens if there are not enough puppies for the class to be held? Are people put on a waiting list till there are sufficient numbers? By then it is often too late and the puppy is too old and misses out, so what contingency plans are there to immediately refer them to an associate/colleague or competitor elsewhere? Do they run follow on courses? If not do they provide a list of suitable places using modern training methods where their puppy school graduates can go? (--/10)

10.  What happens if the owner or the puppy is ill and cant come to one or more of the classes? What happens if the instructor is ill and cant come? What make-up class, wet weather or refund policies are in place? (--/10)

11.  How is the course structured? Is there a syllabus available with course content? Are well constructed lesson plans utilized? What training aids or props are used to teach new concepts? Are weekly home training sheets provided with specific suggestions and exercises to do at home? (--/10)

12.  When do owners have an opportunity to ask questions? How well are they answered? Can owners easily contact the instructor between classes? Is additional information provided to owners during the week by letter, fax or e-mail?(--/10)

13.  Are training aids available? Is there a supply of essential items - for instance blue puppy Kongs, car harnesses, treats and really good puppy books such as After You Get Your Puppy or The Ultimate Puppy Tool Kit? (--/10)

14.  What learning materials are provided or loaned out? A puppy manual? Brochures? Puppy class handouts from a veterinary behaviourist such as those produced by APDT Australia member Dr Debbie Calnon or The First Twelve Months CD produced by Dr Cam Day? Other CDs or DVDs on puppy development? Loan booklets, such as Terry Ryans Take the L.E.A.D. or Puppy Primer? (--/10)

15.  What do previous owners who have attended puppy classes have to say about their experience at this venue? Are exit survey forms used and available for inspection? Can previous owners be contacted to see how their puppy progressed? Did they enjoy coming? Do they recommend the puppy class to their friends as being good value for money? Would they come again themselves with their next puppy? (--/10)

If the score is less than 125 out of 200, keep looking! A score from 125 170 suggests that, if there is no better alternative, it is worthwhile attending but that there is room for improvement in many key areas. A score of 170 + indicates that the puppy school is definitely on the right track but needs to keep fine tuning its operations. A perfect score of 200? Unlikely but there is no harm in dreaming!

The main reason to take a puppy to a first-rate puppy school is for education and preventative maintenance for both human and dog. If owners know exactly what to look for, what to expect, how to communicate and what to do it is likely that they will not make fundamental mistakes.

Puppies will understand strange human requirements and grow up as well behaved adults that fit happily into family life. They will do what is requested first time, act politely around other people and unfamiliar dogs and can safely be taken anywhere. They will be a pleasure to own, are likely to have happy and interesting lives and grow old graciously.

However, without sufficient early teaching during puppy hood and on-going guidance and education during adolescence many juvenile dogs can quickly grow into out of control lunatics. They sometimes pay for their owners mistakes including not going to a good puppy school with their lives.

C.L.E.A.R. Dog Training 2006

3. "Any Dog Can Live Calmly, Even Yours!" - Madeline Gabriel*

(*Manager of Behavior & Training, San Diego Humane Society & S.P.C.A, February 2001. This articles is reproduced with kind with permission of the author)

Wouldnt It Be Nice If...

My dog could come in the house without tearing all over the place? My family could go out in the yard without being jumped on by our dog? My dog was not so crazy when guests come over? My dog would just lay by my feet so we could enjoy some quality time together after a hard day?

These are all very reasonable goals! Who really wants a dog that has to spend the rest of his or her life alone in the back yard or garage? This isnt the true companionship most of us dreamed of when we got our dogs.

The good news is that it doesnt have to stay this way! There are lots of simple exercises you can do right now to begin to incorporate your dog into your life without major disruption. Little by little, you can build a happy ending!

Lets Get Started!

Settle Down

The goal is for your dog to learn to just lie down quietly whenever you sit in a chair & ignore him.

1. First step is to gather everything you need: lead & comfortable, soft collar for your dog & about 50 tiny delicious treats that your dog really likes, a mat for your dog to lie on & something for YOU a book or TV.

2.Bring your dog into the house on the lead & collar & go directly to your chair. Sit down with the lead held close, or under your foot so your dog has just enough room to lie down with little room for exploring. Ignore your dog.

3. If your dog barks or whines, pretend you dont hear (or care!). Do NOT push him or verbally reprimand him. If he nuzzles you, move your arm away. If he jumps on you, lean forward or stand up so he drops off without you having to touch him, look at him or talk to him. Refuse to acknowledge any attempts to get your attention.

4. While pretending not to pay attention, wait for your dog to get bored enough to lie down. When he does, click (or calmly say Yes, once only) & place a treat between his paws so he eats them from the floor. Sit up & go back to ignoring him. Still lying there? Give a few more clicks/yes followed by treats at unpredictable intervals.

5. After about 5 minutes, gather your belongings & move yourself & your dog to another place in the same room. Sit down without a word to your dog & wait again for him to settle down in his new place. Reinforce this desired behaviour with a click or a yes followed by a treat when he does. Gradually increase the time between the treats.

6. When you are tired of this, tell your dog All Done in a matter-of-fact tone of voice & let him go back outside.

Whats great about this exercise is that all dogs can do it! Its simply a matter of setting yourself up for success & waiting out your dog. If your dog likes to chew on the lead, try some Bitter Apple spray (or rubbing alcohol or other yucky tasting substance) to soak the lead before you start.

If you need more help, tie a stuffed Kong or bone to the foot of your chair to keep your dog busy.

The Joys of Food Carrier Toys

When does your dog ever lie still? Never! you might think, & its probably true for much of the day. What about when hes chewing on something? Dont almost all dogs lie down to chew?

The common problem is finding something that will hold your dogs attention long enough to settle him down. Lots of dog toys are destroyed in minutes or quickly lose their attraction. In other cases, dogs have so many toys scattered around that none of them are particularly interesting anymore.

Food Carrier Toys can be an almost magical solution! They are long-lasting &, by their very nature, are different each time because you refill them with different food temptations. The idea is to stuff these toys so well that your dog will have to work on them for a good hour or longer at a time.

A dog that is laying on the floor working on his food puzzle is not running through the house, jumping on people, barking, getting on the furniture or stealing your shoes! By association, your dog begins to learn that being in the house is the time to relax & work on some puzzles.

After a good chew session, most dogs are truly tired - mentally & physically - & are more likely to remain calm for even a little while longer. Food carrier toys are a great way to buy you & your family some peace & quiet & begin to teach your dog to relax.

The best toy is the rubber Kong. Its guaranteed indestructible & can easily be cleaned & used over & over again. Look up http://www.kongcompany.com for clever ideas on how to stuff the Kong to keep your dogs interest for long periods of time.

Sterilized bones, available in pet stores for just a few dollars, are hollow & can be stuffed with soft treats on either end to keep your dog licking & gnawing. Get a bone with thick walls to prevent chips from breaking off.

Rotate your dogs chew toys regularly so he always feels like hes getting something new.

Ask your veterinarian before encouraging lots of chewing & eating of rawhide & similar materials. Ask, too, about the appropriateness of raw marrowbones for your dog & always consider your dogs individual temperament (likely to growl or bite if you take it away?).

Remember, if you dont give your dog something engaging to do in the house, he will find his own entertainment. It is best, therefore, if you take the initiative.

Reinforce What You Like; Ignore/Prevent What You Dont Want

This simple learning principle can be applied to any situation. All animals, including people & dogs, are going to repeat behaviours that lead to things they want. Have you ever told the same joke several times just because someone laughed? Thats reinforcement! [If no one laughed, the joke would die a natural death.]

Similarly, dogs remember the things that worked for them. If nuzzling you gets you to pet him, a dog will continue to nuzzle to the point it becomes an annoyance. Same with jumping, running through the house, getting on the furniture, barking, whining stealing shoes, etc. All of these behaviours remain in your dogs repertoire of What to do when Im in the house because they have been reinforced, intentionally or not, by you.

Attention from you, even in the form of reprimands, is a powerful reinforcer for dogs, & many dogs like many badly behaved children - will escalate annoying behaviors to get you to notice them.

Ignoring what you dont want is one part, but that wont get you far if you are not also actively reinforcing what you do want the dog to do instead. We are all guilty of ignoring dogs when they are peaceful & quiet. Why mess up a good thing, right? Actually, this is a terrific time to go pet your dog or bring him a treat or offer him a walk. Let him discover that being calm brings good things.

Of course, there will be annoying things your dog will find fun & reinforcing with or without your involvement (e.g. getting into the rubbish bin). Thats where good management comes in: i.e. remove the temptation.

A Little Management Goes a Long Way!

Set yourself up for success. Think of practical ways you can prevent the behaviours you dont want until you can get your training in place. Its OK to let your dog drag a lead or longer house line so you can catch him more easily or move him away from restricted areas. Just make sure someone is paying enough attention to keep the dog from getting tangled & strangling himself.

Simply stepping on the lead or dragline can restrict your dogs access so he cant quite jump on you. Calmly picking up the end of the line will prevent all kinds of chase & keep away games & will give you an easy way to remove your dog from furniture without confrontation.

If your only means of control is lunging for the collar, youll find that your dog can easily outmanoeuvre you, making the dog more excited at this fun game & you more frustrated & annoyed! Set it up so you can remain calm & in control.

Tethers & crates are great ways to begin to teach a dog to be calm in a house. Crates, when introduced properly, are terrific holding areas (like a playpen or crib for a baby) for up to a few hours at a time. A tether can be as simple as a lead tied to a doorknob.

Dogs generally make the best of any situation. If theres nothing to reach or do, they will usually settle down for a nap. Take advantage of this by restricting your dogs access during periods where youd like him to be still. This is much more clear to your dog than YOU joining in the fun by chasing & yelling!

Remember, if your dog can do something fun, he will. If he cant, he will find something else to do. Its up to you whether your dog develops good habits or bad habits by the experiences you allow him to have. Trying to get a dog to stop once hes started is always more difficult than preventing the behavior in the first place.

Madeline Gabriel 2001

 


4. "Effective Leadership - the way to a happy pack"

By Karin Larsen Bridge, president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia and part owner and instructor at Get S.M.A.R.T (Successful Motivation And Reward Training) dogs  in Sydney - a dog training school  specializing in positive training classes for pet dogs. She is a Delta Accredited Canine Good Citizen (TM) Instructor and writes and lectures  frequently on dogs and dog  related issues such as positive training methods, behavioural problems and responsible pet ownership. 

         [This article first appeared in Dog's Life magazine and is reproduced here by kind  
        permission of the author]

Dogs naturally live in a pack with each member having a special role to play.  The alpha or lead dog and bitch are the ones who are best at hunting, protecting and nurturing the most young pups into adulthood.  A successful, pack is functional and peaceful.  

When a dog comes into our human pack, it should be easy for us to assume the lead  role  after all we control not only access to food, water and  shelter but to a large extent exploration, exercise  and social interaction as well.  Good leaders are not only good providers however,  they are 

• kind (practice mutual respect)
• confident (able to keep their dog safe in all situations)
• understanding (not have unrealistic expectations)
• knowledgeable (provide structure and education )
• reliable
• consistent and
• fair.
  

It is your job to earn the respect of your dog  not through physical domination or confrontation but by quiet, consistent demonstrations that you are in control of his environment and that all good things in life come through you.   The following steps will help you to be an effective leader of the pack.

Step 1 Have a plan 

Many owners say they want their dog to be good- but good is not a behaviour.  Provide structure for your dog by planning exactly what you would like him to do in everyday situations and have all the family stick to it!  For example when visitors arrive are you happy if your dog keeps all four feet on the ground, would you prefer a sit or would you prefer your dog to stay on a mat in the kitchen?  Once you have decided on the exact behaviour you want you can start to reward your dog for steps in the right direction.    Be specific, be consistent and be patient.

Step 2 Living is Learning

Your dog is learning from you every time you are together not just when you are having a training session.  In all your interactions with your dog be conscious of rewarding the things you like and ignoring the things you dont like. Things that you reward will happen more and more often. Dont forget to reward quiet, passive behaviours such as lying quietly and sitting.  Use all the rewards you are likely to give your dog anyway such as part of his dinner, your attention, praise, cuddles or games but only provide them immediately following good behaviour.  For behaviours that you wish to discourage,  take away  rewards.  This could be as simple as looking away or stopping a game, to a minute of time out in another room. 

Step 3 - Nothing In Life is Free

Insist your dog says please with a sit (or any other behaviour you have trained) for anything he wants such as coming inside, going outside, having leash put on, waiting for dinner or playing with a toy. Let your dog learn that you control the consequences of his behaviour a polite sit dog gets his dinner delivered jump up   and the food bowl moves away.  Your dog is learning that he can control what happens to him by co-operating with you this is empowering for both you and your dog .

 Step 4 To Have and to Hold

Your dog needs to learn that you have the right to restrain and hold him. This will be necessary for effective grooming and easy vet checks as well as being a great way to reinforce your role as leader.  Handling and restraint should be associated with good times, massage, treats and positive attention, please, do not use physical force or fear.  You want to teach your dog that all humans male or female, young or old, weak or strong have the right to gently hold and handle him.  This is an exercise in trust and acceptance and may one day save your dog s life.

 Step 5 Whats yours is mine too!

Make a practice of regularly taking toys and chewies from your dog, looking at them and either giving them straight back or swapping them for something better.  This is a safer way to teach your dog its ok to share than trying to use power tactics to persuade him to give up a bone or toy .  The aim is to form a positive association between people and possessions so that the approach of any human big or small is good news for your dog.


                                             Step 6 - Every game has rules

Games can be a great way to have fun with your dog and to reward him for  good behaviour  but there are some definite dos and donts.

DO:

√    Teach your dog to retrieve.  Bringing toys back to you is a great way to reinforce your leadership position especially if you wait for a sit before throwing the toy again.

√    Keep possession of  toys you play with together like balls or tug ropes and only bring them out when you feel like playing.  Toys are effective rewards and shouldnt be given away for nothing.  Remember all good things in life come through you!

√    Teach your dog an on and off switch by interrupting games every minute or so with a  sit or a down.  This is especially true for games of tug.  Teach your dog to let go on a cue such as enough stand,  still as you do so and look totally uninterested in continuing the game.  As soon as your dog lets go either reward with a treat or invite to play again with your on cue such as playtime.  Now you are able to use play as a reward for quiet behaviour which gives you excellent control of your dog and the games you play together.

√    Quit play immediately if  your dog seems to be getting over excited or if teeth should touch human flesh (even accidentally).

√    Encourage children to play suitable games by the rules with the dog and supervise as necessary.

√    Make sure you and your children spend lots of quiet time with your dog as well as play time. 

 DONT

 X     Dont Play any wrestling games with your dog.  This will only convince your dog that you are another dog and can be treated as such.  It will do nothing to teach your dog respect for humans in general. This rule applies to adults, teenagers and  children.  Many dogs have been labelled aggressive due to inappropriate play in puppy hood. 

X     Dont Allow your dog to bite/wrestle/tug directly on human skin all play should be directed onto toys. 

X      Dont Allow games of chasing.  Chasing after your dog will only convince him that he can direct the games and cant be caught!  Allowing your dog to chase you or your children encourages nipping and biting. 

X      Dont Allow young children to play with any dog unsupervised.

 Step 7  -  Schools in!

Teaching your dog to follow a few basic commands is a great way to reinforce your position as leader and gives you a chance to practice compliance on a regular basis.  If possible, children should also be allowed to train with the dog (under supervision) so that the dog learns that these little people are also above them in the pack hierarchy.  There are four important exercises all dogs should know.

1. Settle

Following on from the handling and restraint exercise above, teach your dog to settle quietly in the house.  Assuming your dogs need for exercise and play have been met, bring your dog into the home and reward him regularly for settling in his special place.  This can be your dogs confinement area, in a crate, on a mat, or tied next to your chair.  Your dog needs to know that, as leader  you are able to gently insist on quiet times and that good thing happen to puppies who co-operate. 

2. Sit and/or down

Teach your dog to sit and to down by luring him into position with a small treat.  Drop the lure and move your hand in exactly the same way then reward from the other hand.   Soon your dog will recognize your hand signals for these behaviours. 

3. Come

Dogs who have learned to trust and feel safe with their leaders should happily come when called.  Teach your dog from the start that coming to you will always be a good choice.

4. Walk nicely on lead

Dogs dont have to walk perfectly by your side to respect you as the leader but by the same token they ought not to drag you from pillar to post.  If your dog has learnt to accept restraint, he should quickly accept the restraint imposed by a leash.  The next step is to make it clear to your dog that you decide which direction you are going to move.  Change direction frequently and only move forward when there is no tension on the leash. 

 Step 8 -  Honour Pack Rules

Dogs have their own set of rules to show who is higher up the pack hierarchy and many behaviourists have recommended we implement the same rules into our human pack. 

o       Leaders have control of the best sleeping/rest areas.  Avoid letting your dog occupy elevated positions around the house such as your bed, furniture, lap or shoulders unless you have specifically given permission first this is one of the many privileges that must be earned. 

o       Leaders eat first- your dog should therefore be fed after the rest of the family  If this is impractical, prepare your dogs meal then make him wait while you finish some other chores, or have a cup of tea.

o       Leaders have right of passage . Dont allow your dog to push ahead of you through doorways  - this is simply good manners.  Open and shut the door quickly until your dog steps back thats your cue to walk through ahead.  Soon it will become second nature for your dog to follow behind. Similarly, if your dog is lying in a hallway or narrow passage, ask him to move dont walk around him.

o       Leaders own the best toys  - all interactive toys are YOURS the dog only has a chance to play with them when you say so, and must give them up when you have had enough. 

            Dominance an overrated catch-phrase

Dominance is a term that defines a relationship between two individuals but is often incorrectly used to denote a general personality trait.  Usually when someone describes a dog as dominant they mean the dog is outgoing, confident, pushy or perhaps even out of control.  No one would deny that puppies come with a great variety of personalities some more easy going than others just like people do - but they will only dominate a relationship if you let them.  Entire breeds have been labelled as dominant when in fact you will find pushy and timid dogs in every breed and in every litter.  Dominance  has also been equated with aggression when in fact many submissive dogs will act aggressively out of fear and many dogs labelled dominant may rarely resort to aggression as they are confident and secure with who they are in the world.  One of the problems with using dominant as a label is that it is used as an excuse for harsh training methods or no training at all.   Dont get hung up on labels  - just as apples are obedient to the laws of gravity,  dogs are obedient to the laws of learning .

 Good leaders are good teachers

Dogs know how to live in a dog pack but they need to learn how to live in a human pack.  We have different codes of conduct and firm ideas about polite behaviour.   A good leader is above all a good teacher, providing structure and learning opportunities to help a dog integrate into our human world.  By implementing the steps above, even the rowdiest dog will soon learn that doing the things you want is the best way to get the things he wants -  a win/win situation for all. 

  Karin Larsen Bridge 2003
  www.getsmartdogs.com.au

5.THE INS AND OUTS OF A DOG IN THE HOUSE

By Karin Larsen Bridge, president of the Association of Pet Dog Trainers Australia and part owner and instructor at Get S.M.A.R.T (Successful Motivation And Reward Training) dogs  in Sydney - a dog training school  specializing in positive training classes for pet dogs. She is a Delta Accredited Canine Good Citizen (TM) Instructor and writes and lectures  frequently on dogs and dog  related issues such as positive training methods, behavioural problems and responsible pet ownership. 

 
 [This article first appeared in Dog's Life magazine, Sept 2000, and is reproduced here by kind permission of the author]

 Dog owners come in two distinctly divided groups those who like to have their dogs in the house and those who prefer to keep them outside.  The inside group cant see the point of owning a dog if it doesnt share your home with you.  The outside group firmly believe that a dogs place is out in the fresh air, that to bring a dog in would make it soft or spoilt as well making the home less pleasant for its human' occupants.

 Opinion on whether a dog should be kept inside or outside stems from a mixture of cultural background, personal experiences and practical considerations such as the set-up and size of your home, how many dogs you have and your dogs role in the family.  In Australia, with our mild climate, working dogs were traditionally kept outside and many people carry on this tradition with their pet dogs.  In the colder climates of Europe, even farm dogs traditionally lived-in with the family and the trend continues today with millions of pet dogs still sharing small apartments with their owners.

 Although a matter of personal choice, a growing number of canine behaviourists and trainers are recommending that pet owners allow their dogs to come inside the family home. 

REASONS TO BRING YOUR DOG INSIDE.

 Dogs are social animals

Dogs make wonderful pets because they are by nature a social animal.   They have a strong need to belong to and interact with, other members of their pack either canine or human.  If your pack spends most of its time inside your home, that is where your dog will want to be.

 More value for your money.

Most people keep dogs today not to fulfil any work function but rather for companionship.  It is a fact of modern life however that we spend less time in our homes then ever before and therefore less time in the company of our dogs.  If, added to this the dog is not allowed inside, the time you spend together becomes negligible.  To get the most value out of the cost and effort of owning a dog, it makes sense to let your dog in.

 Inside dogs exhibit fewer behaviour problems.

Outside dogs are more likely to exhibit serious behaviour problems associated with boredom such as excessive barking, destructive chewing, separation anxiety and self-mutilation.  A bored and lonely dog finds minor disturbances like people passing, kids playing or birds chirping, a great excuse for barking which quickly develops into a self-rewarding habit.   

     Better Protection for YOU not your backyard

Your most valuable possessions are inside your house including yourself and your family.  A dog inside your house is a much bigger deterrent to an intruder than an outside dog and much harder to deal with.   An outside dog can usually be easily released and/or stolen.  When you answer the door to a stranger, a dog by your side is a better deterrent then a dog shut away in your backyard. 

 Observation and interaction -  a natural way to learn.

Your dog is learning from you every minute you are together.  This give the inside dog who shares your home a great advantage over an outside dog.  The inside dog soon learns what leads to attention, cuddles, and car trips, walks and treats as well as what doesnt!  Even without any formal training, the inside dog will probably learn to fit in just as he would in the wild through observation and experience. You too will learn to read your dog more easily if you are able to spend time observing him in the comfort of your own home. 

 Compare this to the amount of feedback the outside dog is able to gleam from the relatively small amount of time you and your family spend outdoors.  The outside dog must struggle to learn human protocol and is less likely to ingratiate himself into your heart.

 If you dont have a philosophical objection to having a dog in the home, it is likely that your dogs behaviour   is keeping him at bay.  Many young dogs appear to be a whirlwind of destruction when first allowed inside a home.  Like children dogs need to be taught how to behave in our human environment.  The ideal time to start is of course with a puppy, but the same principles apply to dogs of any age. If you follow the six simple steps below, your dog too can earn the keys to the executive suite.

SIX STEPS TO RAISING THE PERFECT HOUSE DOG 

 1.  Housetraining your #1 priority!

    All dogs without a physical disability can be trained not to soil in the house.  The key
     points to remember are:

     Select - a suitable area, not too far from the house where you will encourage puppy to do his business.  The substrate you choose (usually grass) will become puppys preferred toileting surface.

      Supervise - watch your puppy for sniffing, circling behaviour usually a precursor to toileting.  Take your puppy out after every meal, playtime, sleep, and drink and encourage him to toilet.

      Management - if you cannot supervise, leave him in a safe area where accidents are not a problem.  Realise however that allowing your dog to toilet on more than one surface (e.g. newspapers and grass) while unavoidable may lengthen the housetraining process.

      Reward - with praise and a titbit when puppy toilets in the preferred spot. It is essential that puppy understands, you like toileting by establishing a reward history for the right behaviour. 

     Interrupt your pup if he starts to toilet in the house as mildly as possible to get the desired effect.  The intention is to stop your dog in the act, not to frighten him.  Lead him to the appropriate area and encourage him to finish the job.  If you frighten the pup he will soon be convinced you have a hang-up about bodily functions and refuses to toilet in your presence - preferring privacy behind the couch or under a bed.

2. Constructive Ways to Avoid Destruction

    Restrict your puppy to a safe area, complete with suitable chew toys and a sleeping area.  Take him out to play and toilet.  In this errorless environment, your puppy will be set up for success.

     Develop a chew toy habit by stuffing toys such as Kongs and smoked marrowbones with kibble and titbits to make them more interesting.  Rotate toys so there are always one or two new ones to explore.  

     Avoid inadvertently teaching your dog that stealing leads to a great game of catch me if you can! Instead practice lots of swaps.  Even when your dog has things he is allowed to have, take them from him, have a look and then give them back.  Occasionally swap them for something better like a treat.  If your dog learns that allowing you to take things from him leads to something of equal or better value for him, there will be no need to run from you or worse still develop possessive guarding behaviour. 

     As pup learns what is expected of him, his area can be increased.  It is not necessary for your dog to have full run of the house to feel a part of the pack.  If you prefer, your dog only need access a well-frequented part of the house such as a kitchen or family area where the pack gather to watch TV or chat.

     If you prefer train your dog to settle on a mat whenever he comes into the house.  This can easily be taught by keeping your dog on lead and sitting next to his mat.  When the dog begins to relax and settle reward with quiet praise and titbits.  Use a cue word like mat or go to bed and your pup will soon understand that if he wants the privilege of being inside he must lie quietly on his mat.   Your dog will still appreciate having gained a foothold into the den and will enjoy being able to observe family interactions from his special spot.

 3.  Four on the floor and no more nipping!

     Right from when puppy first arrives, reward him for keeping four (paws) on the floor, by giving him lots of cuddles and attention down at his level.

     NEVER reward jumping up with your attention of any kind.  To many dogs even negative attention can be considered fun or a game.

      Train an alternate behaviour such as sit and reward with what pup wants most  your attention.

     Teach everyone in the family, especially children to make like a post, fold their arms and look away, if pup gets very excited and/or nips and jumps.  Fence posts are not much fun and pup will soon lose interest.

      If puppy is really excited put him in his safe area for some time out until he settles.

 4. Rover goes to school basic obedience training.

     As puppy gets older, attend a training class where you will learn how to teach your dog basic behaviour like sit stay come and walk nicely.

     Training should be fun and stimulating for both you and your dog look for a class you will both enjoy.

     Training games are a great way to satisfy your dogs need for interaction and stimulation without having to leave the house.

     Training will help you to establish a more satisfactory relationship with your dog based on understanding and mutual respect.

5.         A snip in time saves lives allergies and dog hairs.

     If you did some research before making the commitment to buy a dog, you will have been forewarned.  You cannot blame the dog for shedding hair anymore than you can blame a person for being bald!

     There are breeds of dogs which do not shed hair and which are suitable for people with allergies.

     Only allowing the dog in a back part of the house, keeping him off the furniture and regular brushing, will go a long way to controlling the problem.

  6.    Corgi Clean - is your dog fit for a palace?

      Properly cared for, dogs are perfectly suited to sharing our homes just ask H.M. the Queen!

     Your dog can and should be kept free of external and internal parasites as well as being generally clean and well groomed.

     Guide dogs for the blind and Assistance dogs for the disabled accompany their partners not only in their homes but in public restaurants, theatres and even surgeries and hospitals as well.

     Your dogs condition is a reflection of your attitude toward him and is much more easily monitored when he shares your home.  A clean, healthy dog is a loved dog.

 A FRIEND INSIDE IS WORTH TWO IN THE YARD.

Ultimately, the decision to bring your dog in is a personal but for me, dogs nestled around the family room floor convert a house into a home.  In an echo of primal times, the peaceful, slumbering faces of the watchdogs around the camp instinctively tell me that our pack is safe and all is well with the world.  As my two sons and husband gather in front of the television for another primal activity the rugby my guardians and I slip up the stairs to the spare room to snuggle contentedly in front of my favourite romantic video.  Coming inside is good for dogs? Bugger the dogs; its good for me!

 Doggy doors are a great way to increase the quality of life for both you and your dog.  Your dog has the freedom to come and go as he pleases and you get to stop playing  doorman! 

  Karin Larsen Bridge 2000
  Get S.M.A.R.T Dogs, Sydney
  www.getsmartdogs.com.au

6.Why Do We Train With Food?

                                                    By Dr Cynthia D. Fisher, B.A. MS, PhD

                                     Chief Instructor at Gold Coast Dog Obedience Club
                                 [Used with kind permission of the author]

Occasionally we encounter a handler who is uneasy with the idea of using food in training their dog.  For many years, the competition obedience community frowned on the use of food.  It was seen as somehow cheating.  Instead, people trained with praise and petting as their rewards, and used a lot of physical corrections (like checks on a chain collar or pushing the dog into the sit or drop position) to show the dog what they wanted or to punish mistakes.

 Today, many trainers have realised that punishment based training is out-of-date, unfair to the dog, and less effective than reward-based training.  The past decade has seen a revolution in positive dog training techniques around the world, and our club now uses these state of the art methods.

 Psychologists have known the basic principles of animal learning that we apply in positive dog training since the 1940s.  In the 1970s, marine mammal trainers become very good at using the principles of positive training.  They had to, because they couldnt put a collar on a killer whale or a dolphin and FORCE it to do anything! 

 Its been said that we have historically used coercive training methods on dogs because we could.  Dogs are land-based animals that are smaller than we are and generally prefer not to attack us, so we have been able to get away with harsh methods.  But these methods are not necessary, and are not particularly effective.  It is now possible to train your dog without even touching it.  If you are smarter than your dog, you no longer need to be tougher and meaner than it is to get it to do what you want!

 All animals (and people) learn to repeat behaviours that have had pleasant consequences.  A pleasant consequence is called a positive reinforcer.  Training is all about getting the animal to do what you want and then providing an immediate positive reinforcer so the animal learns to do that behaviour again in the future.  There are many possible reinforcers for dogs:  praise, petting, play (with a ball or tug toy or other game the dog likes), food treats, and life rewards.

 Life rewards are any desirable privilege you are likely to give your dog anyhow in the course of a day, like letting it in the house, taking it for a drive or a walk, inviting it up on to the sofa, etc.  If the dog likes the reward, it will work to attain it.

 Remember, REINFORCERS ARE IN THE EYE OF THE BEHOLDER.  Its the dogs opinion that counts.  There is no point in trying to train a dog using rewards that the dog doesnt want or find reinforcing.  If your dog isnt interested in kibble (dried dog food), try cheese or meat.  If your dog doesnt like being patted on the head (and most dont), dont try to use pats on the head as a reinforcer because the dog wont work to earn more of them.

FOOD IS NOT QUALITATIVELY DIFFERENT than petting or praise - its just another reinforcer, another kind of positive consequence.  But food happens to be a reinforcer that has much greater value than praise or petting for most dogs.  Dogs need food to live, so nature equipped them to value it highly.  They dont need praise or petting to live. 
                                                   

So why not train with a potent reinforcer like food rather than a weaker reinforcer like petting?  After all, you wouldnt dig a swimming pool in your back yard with a teaspoon; youd get a steam shovel and get the job done quickly and effectively! 

 Training with food is faster and more powerful than training with weaker rewards like praise and petting.  And you can, of course, always use praise and touch along with food.

 There are a number of other good reasons to use food in training:

     Using food motivates the dog to pay attention to you, and attention is a prerequisite to         almost any learning or training.  When you are training your dog, you are competing                 against the environment for its attention.  On the training grounds, there are many         other dogs, lots of people, and plenty of interesting scents. 

        You need to be more interesting to your dog than all this.  Your chances are better if youve got sausage than if youve got praise.  One problem with praise and petting as reinforcers is that WE GIVE THEM AWAY FOR FREE much of the time.  We stroke our dogs and tell them how wonderful they are because we like them, day in and day out.  This is one of the joys of owning a dog.  But why should they work for something they get plenty of for free?  Some people who have success training dogs with praise and petting intentionally deprive their animals of human contact by kennelling them at all times other than while training.  This may increase the animals desire for praise and petting, but its not much of a life for a pet.

        It is completely natural for dogs to work for food.  The wild dog or wolf certainly has to work pretty hard to track down and kill something to eat!  Zoos often invent food puzzles so their captive animals have to work and use their brains and muscles to obtain food.  This mental and physical stimulation is very beneficial to their health and well-being.  Food training gives your dog the same enriching experience.

        Being the source of food increases your status and leadership in the dogs eyes, especially as you set the rules for getting the food.  Why should the dog look to you for leadership if it appears that God fills a bottomless food bowl each day, and youve got relatively little of real value to offer the dog contingent on its behaviour?

        Training with rewards makes the dog eager to do more, to work harder, and to pay attention to you.  Training with punishments makes the dog want to do just enough to escape or avoid punishment, and may greatly reduce its desire to be with you. 

        Dogs learn by reinforced repetition.  It is easy to practice an exercise ten times in a row if you reward each repetition with a tiny piece of food.  Its harder to get a training rhythm going and do ten repetitions if your reward is throwing a ball.  It takes a while to get the dog and ball back and set up for another repetition.  Its even harder to do many repetitions in a short period if your reward is taking the dog for a walk in the park.  This is not to say you shouldnt use ball games or walks in the park as rewards, by all means do so!  But when teaching a new behaviour, its repetitions that produce learning, and most dogs will do more repetitions for food in a short while than for other reinforcers.

        Eating has a calming effect on dogs.  It does on us, too we sometimes eat to relieve stress in our lives.  Dogs that are anxious or aggressive tend to calm down when food is used in training.  These same dogs become more anxious or aggressive when harsh methods add extra stress to training.

        Food can be used in the early stages of training as a lure as well as a reinforcer.  If you lure your dog into the sit or drop position with food, you dont need to physically push or pull or force it into that position.  And force from us tends to cause resistance from dogs.  With a food lure, the dog freely chooses to take up the sit or drop position.

        If you regard your dog as your best friend, you probably dont want to jerk it around
roughly or cause it pain if theres another way to teach it to listen to you and behave well.  AND THERE IS!

 Cynthia D. Fisher
     www.gcdotc.org.au
 

7. Producing Change in Obedience Clubs

 By Dr Cynthia D. Fisher, B.A. MS, PhD

                                     Chief Instructor at Gold Coast Dog Obedience Club