Servicing Brisbane’s Eastern Suburbs, Queensland.

CLEAR trainer takes on the best - and wins!

Adam bc nats web

CLEAR owner and head trainer Caroline Strainig travelled south last month to put her obedience training to the test against the best handers and dogs in the southern states.

Caroline had what can only be described as a “ripper” run at the NSW Dog Obedience State Championships and Border Collie Nationals in Sydney with her border collie Adam and rescue border collie-cross Groot.

Caroline and her two dogs competed 16 times for 16 qualifications, which is an amazing strike rate!

Caroline’s older dog, Adam, was never out of the first two in fields of 30-40-plus dogs.

Highlights at the state championships included winning the championship in open obedience, a gold medallion for highest overall three qualifications in obedience and an award for excellence in heeling. Adam also won a state championship and reserve state championship in rally obedience.

At the Border Collie Nationals, they won open obedience, masters rally o and ex B rally O – scoring 197 out of 200 in open obedience and achieving two perfect scores in rally obedience. They also took home two seconds in Dances With Dogs.

Not to be outdone, young Groot, a rescue dog Caroline has had for only nine months, won a state championship in rally obedience and a medallion for excellence in obedience. He could not compete in the Border Collie Nationals as he was not a pedigree dog.

Caroline is available for puppy home visits, mind-your-manners sessions and behavioural troubleshooting sessions in the bayside and SE Brisbane.

She is also the national, state and EKKA champion in rally obedience and teaches rally o privately and at the Redlands Dog Obedience Club in Birkdale. Her older dog, Adam has already achieved 10 scores of 100 out of 100 in rally o this season, which may well be an Australian record.

The CLEAR way to communicate

By CLEAR founder and consultant Oliver Beverly

Frankie southside 2

Focussed and ready! A border collie puppy looks intently at its owner during a CLEAR training session. 

Being an effective communicator is essential to being a good dog owner/trainer. If your puppy or your dog fails to respond first time to your instructions, whether in the kitchen or at the park, ask yourself three questions:   

  • Did he actually HEAR my word or SEE my hand signal?          
  • Did he UNDERSTAND what it meant?          
  • Was there adequate MOTIVATION?

Unless your answer is always ‘YES’ to all three then any specific behaviour you want from your dog simply won’t happen until you acquire good communication and teaching skills. Our experienced, well qualified and friendly coach-instructors will help you do this - and much more.

We use modern training techniques are effective and enjoyable at both ends of the lead. They will assist you to quickly have an obedient, calm and well behaved dog that trusts you and is welcomed wherever he goes. He will understand what you are saying and soon WANT to do immediately what you ASK him to do. 

Our responsibility as dog owners, whether of a new eight-week-old puppy or a recently arrived adult rescue dog is to teach him what our hand signals or our words mean so that he can 'sit', 'drop', 'stay', 'come', 'leave', 'heel' etc. first time. If educated gradually, patiently and methodically he will soon learn to do so, happily and willingly. He will also do so whenever and wherever requested and whatever the level of distraction.

Expecting a new puppy to be a mind reader and instantly understand English is as unrealistic as expecting him to understand Chinese. To become frustrated when he doesn't 'obey' and to repeat commands louder and more sternly hoping that he will comply is unreasonable. To then reprimand a puppy, whose only crime is not understanding, with a verbal or physical correction is clearly very unfair.Intentionally or unintentionally we are all informally training our dogs 24 hours a day, simply by the way we interact and communicate with them. They either learn by themselves to do undesired things, like jumping to greet visitors, or we are proactive and teach good things first, like sitting on a mat when the doorbell rings.

Many puppies soon become out of control adolescents. The reason is simply because, even if they are aware of the need for training, their humans are blissfully unaware HOW properly to teach them good behaviours in the first place. As owner/trainers we can teach new behaviours by saying, in English or any other language, a 'command' word first. When the puppy initially fails to understand then pushing at one end of the body or pulling his collar gets him into the right position. Even though the process is not much fun for the puppy this physical approach undoubtedly works: most dogs will quickly learn the meaning of a limited number of  words like 'sit' or 'drop' and will perform a few basic behaviours in the kitchen for a few seconds. Usually they do so with reluctance and unreliably and for a short time only, especially if there is something more interesting going on around them.

Instead of getting frustrated and pushing and pulling CLEAR Dog Training will help you to acquire the techniques to influence what happens inside your puppy's or your dog's head, without the use of any compulsion at any stage of the learning process. A large repertoire of simple behaviours, as well as a wide range of complex ones will soon be performed - voluntarily, reliably and promptly.

Training methods based on the scientific laws of learning are like the laws of gravity and always work. Unlike older punishment-based animal training methods, such as in horse 'breaking', they involve no psychological or physical pressure, force or pain - however mild. Your dog too should be able to choose and decide for himself which choice of alternative behaviours is the right one to offer. Instead of being fearful to experiment, and run the risk of being immediately 'corrected' for a 'mistake', he should be encouraged to use his initiative and see what works to his advantage. Through trial and error, without the possibility of unpleasant consequences, he will become a willing and involved learner who learns quickly and joyously.

Provided you have the necessary knowledge and skills, which we will show you how to acquire, and provided everybody else in your house is consistent your dog will quickly understand your communication and what you want him to do. He will do so because he WANTS to and not because he HAS to!

There is no question that both traditional and modern training methods work and are therefore 'successful'. The difference is in the approach and philosophy to teaching as well as the speed and enjoyment of the training process - at both ends of the lead. With the newer techniques there is a different mindset and even a change in the trainer's vocabulary whereby 'command' and 'obedience' become 'cue' and 'good manners', and 'correct' and 'dominate' change to 'show' and 'motivate'. Naturally it is every owner's choice as to which way he or she would prefer to teach. From your puppy's or your dog's point of view, however, there is no doubt as to which way he or she would much prefer to learn!

Is my vet right to tell me to hold my puppy's snout firmly & tell him “NO BITE”?

Suppressing a behaviour by force is probably quite painful and your puppy may have temporarily stopped biting to avoid being hurt by you in the future. He will have no idea why he is being treated so roughly and there is no guarantee that the biting won’t happen later in life if, for instance, somebody accidentally steps on his tail.

Simultaneously uttering a guttural command or threat (e.g.,"No biting" = If you bite again I'll hurt you again, and for longer ) in English assumes your puppy is a mind reader or can miraculously understand whichever particular human language you used.

Nipping ankles or biting hands are invitations to play and when littermates continuously do so they mouth and bite each other all the time. If one puppy bites another too hard the game ends as the bitten puppy yelps and moves away; so if the biter wants to play again he needs to solve the problem himself by modifying the force of the bite and not to do it so hard the next time. This is a continuous and VERY necessary learning process throughout puppyhood, adolescence and adulthood. 

Puppies that are taken away from their mother and littermates too early, e.g. at 5-6 weeks instead of 8-10 weeks, have inufficent time to learn how to play nicely and are therefore much more likely to nip and bite inappropriately. Single litter puppies are at an even greater disadvantage.

Puppy nipping 2

When a puppy leaves his mother and siblings he sees humans, especially small children, as his only playmates. We have sensitive skins and so need to teach our puppies that biting people is not acceptable. But for it to be a self-taught lesson, and therefore one remembered for the rest of life, this is best done if taught without force or fear. And it should taught from eight weeks of age - really good breeders do so even younger - in little steps while puppies still have sharp little teeth but weak jaws that can’t yet do serious damage.
 
So step one in teaching proper bite inhibition is that hard nips and bites end the game. Yelp indignantly, like another puppy would, and walk away to end the game without saying a word. The 'punishment' for the puppy is the removal of your attention and the game ending. Step two is that moderate bites end the game, step three is that light bites end the game and the final step is that touching human skin, even if accidentally as when puppies get overexcited, ends the game.
 
Puppy nipping1A shouted command ‘NO Biting’ might well startle a puppy so that he stops doing it but, no matter whether it is said in English or Swahili, it doesn't teach him what else to DO instead.
 
 
Any well intentioned person who advocates the use of force or shouting to prevent perfectly natural behaviours could get you and your dog into great trouble!
 
Your puppy, with his needle sharp teeth but weak jaws, will not be adequately educated in relation to having in-built good bite inhibition. He will soon become an adult dog with blunter teeth but much stronger jaws that are capable of inflicting serious damage.
 
If he bites it will be probably be a hard one hard because you followed incorrect advice and inadvertently prevented him from having the opportunity to learn to give an inhibited bite.
 
Puppies that have not learned bite inhibition may yet grow into much loved adult dogs and cause no harm for several years; however many of them quite unexpectedly do attack a child or adult, 'out of the blue', and end up on the evening TV news. Because they had poor or no bite inhibition the damage can be severe and so they are generally destroyed the next day.
DogbitesAug1

Should playing 'tug' with my puppy be avoided?

Contrary to the old fashioned school of thinking that a dog that wins at tug will somehow become aggressive or ‘dominant’, playing tug is a natural behaviour that dogs in the wild practice all the time in order to eat. Domestic puppies continuously practice hunting skills and shake and ‘kill’ their toy. Teaching ‘tug’ is an excellent motivator that can be used as a game to physically and mentally tire a dog out and, later in life, as a motivator for performing a behaviour or a sequence of behaviours such as in agility or fly ball.
 
However, tug (sometimes unfortunately called 'Tug of War') of war IS indeed a very bad game if played incorrectly by children or adults (dog wins, growls and runs off with the tug toy). But it is an excellent one if played correctly according to the owner’s rules of take (‘tug’) and release (‘let go’) when I say so.
  
Tug is a collaborative activity. You are not fighting for possession of the object, but together pulling it apart, like two animals pulling a large piece of prey open so they can eat the insides.  What happens when you let go and the animal gets the toy?  Ninety percent of the time they offer it back for more tugging!  Good tugging is a give and take affair. You pull the other party for a few seconds, then you move forward and let them pull you. There is no reason whatsoever not to let the dog take the toy some of the time, and teach it to release it to you if you ask.
 
A game of tug, like throwing a ball or a Frisbee, is often much more rewarding to some dogs than a piece of food. Tug taught early in life teaches patience and impulse control and often helps a timid dog gain confidence. It is actually quite a sensible idea to occasionally let a timid dog win. And, if a dog has been restricted to the back yard all day, expending energy by playing ‘tug’ for a few minutes before going for a walk automatically results in a much calmer dog and therefore a more pleasant walk for the owner and the dog.

Suppressing a behaviour by force - a good idea or not?

Suppressing a behaviour by force - such as when vets and vet nurses recommend holding a puppy's nose and telling him 'No bite' is likely quite painful.

Although a puppy may have temporarily stopped biting to avoid being hurt by his owner in the future, he will have no idea why he is being treated so roughly.

Simultaneously uttering a guttural command or threat (i.e."No biting" = If you bite again I'll hurt you again, and this time for longer ) in English - or Swahili - mistakenly assumes a puppy is a mind reader or can miraculously understand a particular human language.

There is no guarantee that the biting won’t happen later in life if, for instance, somebody accidentally steps on his tail.

What many people don't realise is that biting is an invitation to play and when littermates continuously do so they mouth and bite each other all the time. If one puppy bites another too hard the game ends as the bitten puppy yelps and moves away; so if the biter wants to play again he needs to solve the problem himself by modifying the force of the bite and not to do it so hard the next time. This is a continuous and VERY necessary learning process throughout puppyhood, adolescence and adulthood. 

When a puppy leaves his mother and siblings he sees humans as his only playmates. We have sensitive skins and so need to teach our puppies that biting people is not acceptable. But for it to be a self taught lesson, and therefore one remembered for the rest of life, this is best done if taught without force or fear. And it should taught from eight weeks of age - really good breeders do so even younger - in little steps while puppies still have sharp little teeth but weak jaws that can’t yet do serious damage.
 
So step one in teaching proper bite inhibition is that hard bights end the game. Owners who yelp indignantly, like another puppy would, and walk away without saying a single word simply end the fun. The 'punishment' for the puppy is the removal of any attention and the game ending. Step two is that moderate bites end the game, step three is that light bites end the game and the final step is that touching human skin, even if accidentally as when puppies get overexcited, ends the game.

A shouted command ‘NO Biting’ might well startle a puppy so that he stops doing it but, no matter whether it is said in English or any other language, it doesn't teach him what else to DO instead.
 
Any well intentioned person who advocates the use of force or shouting to prevent perfectly natural behaviours could get you and your dog into great trouble!
 
A puppy, with his needle sharp teeth but weak jaws, will not be adequately educated in relation to having in-built good bite inhibition. He will soon become an adult dog with blunter teeth but much stronger jaws that are capable of inflicting serious damage.
 
If he bites it will be probably be a hard one hard because his owner followed incorrect advice that inadvertently prevented him from having the opportunity to learn to give an inhibited bite. Puppies that have not learned bite inhibition often grow into adult dogs who one day, years away sometimes, attack somebody and end up on the evening TV news and are generally destroyed the next day.

 DogbitesAug1

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